Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
Mental preparation...worth anything??
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


lmorton


May 21, 2002, 7:47 PM
Post #1 of 6 (987 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2002
Posts: 59

Mental preparation...worth anything??
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm constantly hearing the best climbers talk about the importance of mental preparation for a climb. In this respect, elite climbing is like performing in any other sport: your mind has to be in the game.

But for the rest of us, those of us who seem to be more limited by physical constraints than loss of focus or mental preparedness, how important can mental preparation actually be???

All of my hardest climbs have been accomplished just by holding on and pulling like mad...am I missing something??


miagi


May 21, 2002, 8:04 PM
Post #2 of 6 (987 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 1087

Mental preparation...worth anything?? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Most, or almost all climbers agree; There is a point of your climbing ablility where you can just go all out physically and finish the route. However, for a really hard climb that seems out of your ability, climbers agree that you have to get past your own mental barrier before you can succesfully tackle it. If you see people like Jason Kehl on Evilution, or any other pro athlete, they say they had to get in the game mentally before they knew they could do it. For me, music or people cheering me on is a good mental help. Sometimes sitting there and meditating (i guess you can call it that) is also good for calming my nerves. I just listened to Jason Kehl on his "After Midnight" climb and he said the way he gets psyched is to pretend that he is a super hero not afraid of heights. Getting there mentaly is 100% needed and every approaches it in unique ways


ktwo


May 21, 2002, 8:26 PM
Post #3 of 6 (987 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 443

Mental preparation...worth anything?? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would like to quote Morpheus from the Matrix in saying, "don't think you can, KNOW you can!" If you knew that you could climb 5.15, I am pretty sure that you could. But, no matter how much you convince yourself, you will always have a little voice telling you that you can't. It is climbers like Sharma that can get past this little voice.


lmorton


May 21, 2002, 8:32 PM
Post #4 of 6 (987 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 30, 2002
Posts: 59

Mental preparation...worth anything?? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I know that for Sharma, visualizing and mental prep and all that shiznit make all the difference...but what about for the rest of us?

Personally, my physical limitations are the ones keeping me down - literally - not my inability to "do or do not...there is no try"
(to quote Morpheus' midget predecessor)


extrasports


May 21, 2002, 8:51 PM
Post #5 of 6 (987 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 11, 2002
Posts: 100

Mental preparation...worth anything?? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Your mental state is very important. You can think your way out of doing a climb and that can take place with in your first few moves.
Be ready to conquer. Think of your climb as if everyone you know is watching you make this climb or as if your on ESPN the world is watching. Know this can be your best climb ever...so kick some a## ROCK IT UP!
H-man(extrasports)


madscientist


May 21, 2002, 9:00 PM
Post #6 of 6 (987 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2002
Posts: 159

Mental preparation...worth anything?? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I believe that the mental aspect is one of the most important parts. I am not just talking about motivation, but visualization. Before any hard climb or boulder problem, I imagine myself doing the climb. I try to imagine what the rock feels like under my hands, and what muscles I have to contract in my body, and what that will feel like. I believe this makes a huge difference.

To relay a little story about this. A few months ago I was working a long traversing boulder problem. I could do all the moves, but I found them very hard. After two hours wiring the moves, I thought I could do the problem. I was tired so I came back two days later to give it a try, and I failed miserably. I worked through the sections again, and was spent. I was obsessed. I imagined every move, and how every move felt before I went to bed for two nights in a row. I then went back to the traverse, warmed up, then sent it with no problem. It felt easy. Visualization works.


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook