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any 4th/easy 5th routes on the presidentials
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Oct 2, 2004, 12:12 AM
Post #1 of 2 (1350 views)

Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 229

any 4th/easy 5th routes on the presidentials  (Australasia: Australia: South_Australia: Adelaide: Pelican_Plaza: Storm_boy_wall)
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or other high peaks? mountaineering routes? suggestions...?


Oct 13, 2004, 10:01 AM
Post #2 of 2 (1350 views)

Registered: Aug 19, 2002
Posts: 10

Re: any 4th/easy 5th routes on the presidentials [In reply to]
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Yup, lots. My favorite is The Pinnacle in Huntington Ravine. At this time of year it's best to leave Pinkham Notch Visitor Center by 7AM. In another week you would be well served to make a headlamp start by 6AM. Weather can get ferocious in a heartbeat, but the Pinnacle is a real treat for easy climbing. The route(s) get iced up fairly early and, as they get little sunlight, they tend to stay that way. By mid October a pair of crampons and one alpine axe could easily come in handy. By Mid November you will want a couple of screws and two tools to go with the crampons.

The easy climbs are on the North Face of the Pinnacle, the hardest are on the West facing wall above the Pinnacle Gully. There are several GB's available and they all say the same thing: easier to the left harder to the right, close to the arete overlooking Pinnacle Gully. Two of the belays (2nd & 5th, where the variations converge) are at very scenic overlooks of the Gully.

The Pinnacle has a few fixed pins but #6 -# 13stoppers, doubles of the small to mid tri-cams and a half set of cams including one at 3 1/2 inches should suffice for the easy routes. a half-dozen draws will be good but slingage is what you will need, along with plenty of free biners. I used 4 doubles on one pitch and wanted another. Somehow I always manage to use my set of LoweBalls on that crag.

..If you take the 4th class option on the third pitch (low to the left beneath the bushes, then up) and work up and left to the comfy grassy ledge belay directly below the Allis Chimney you will really want a thin active cam or one of the smaller LoweBalls. That third move off the third belay to a ratty slab is spooky and the only other gear that would go in is pins.

The Allis Chimney is a real treat. The start is a bit of a puzzle to protect with the entry being exhilerating. Have fun with the chockstone near the top! The Chimney exit moves are strenuous but easy.

If the Pinnacle is crowded (unlikely), there is the much taller Central Gully. Speed is a serious issue on's realy long.

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