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climber4life
Oct 2, 2004, 9:29 AM
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Petzl outdoor lead climbing competition.
OK, I saw another thread asking if anyone had dynoed on a lead. Heres a dyno, on a lead, in a competition. Also, looking into about half way, one (French) guy is talking to the cameraman (about 250ft off the ground).
Hes not paying attention to how much slack he takes to make the clip, then falls. He falls at least 60ft, AFTER he says he couldn't because he saw a bush on the climb. Enjoy!
p.s: Quicktime or Flash required.
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popol
Oct 2, 2004, 9:59 AM
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Don't forget to mention that the hold broke off!
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deleted
Deleted
Oct 2, 2004, 10:54 AM
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Was that for real? Looks staged to me. Looks like something Dan Osman would do at the end of his climbs. I did see what looked like a hold breaking though; wouldn't be hard to stick a couple loose stones in that big bucket? Whatever I think JT512 set him up to this remember the thread "Ever fall while pulling slack for next clip?" hahahaa :wink:
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pumpout2004
Oct 2, 2004, 1:25 PM
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If u play the movie frame by frame u can tell this fall isn't staged because of the look on the guys face right as the hold breaks off, he is terrified!
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rockn_j
Oct 2, 2004, 2:01 PM
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I love how his fall almost starts in slow motion. There is still enough time to look DOWN at the hold before his head moves past it. Probably no one was more surprised than the climber himself. Hopefully that yelp he gave as he fell was "BELOW". :shock:
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nikegirl
Oct 2, 2004, 3:00 PM
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sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!
replay replay and REPLAY!
~T
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jakedatc
Oct 2, 2004, 3:41 PM
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yea.. the fall is totally by accident... but not 250ft up lol
i love that he was talking about how he loved being up in the air and stuff... then was like ahh. i wont fall now.. *crack* wheeeeeeeeeeee
sharma trying to be tricky preclipping the first draw was funny too..
i think Dave would be the pro i'd have the most fun climbing with (well.. cept beth rodden.. sorry dave).. he cracks me up
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climber4life
Oct 2, 2004, 4:24 PM
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In reply to: yea.. the fall is totally by accident... but not 250ft up lol sharma trying to be tricky preclipping the first draw was funny too..
Just an estimate.....
Hey I never noticed the hold coming off myself. Shows how much I pay attention. Can I get an "out of 10" rating for the video from everyone?
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jakedatc
Oct 2, 2004, 4:28 PM
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Climber.. you gotta think.. they are using at max 70m ropes.. and are being lowered so thats 45m max to the top of the route thats like 150 ft or something ... that wall is beautiful though
i like most of the petzl vids.. they are done well.. i wish they put in subtitles more for the non french folks but ehh what can you do
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dredsovrn
Oct 2, 2004, 4:44 PM
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Holy crap! You got enough slack in your hand there? He was going for ride either way I suppose. Did a foot hold break or something? He looked like he was on pretty solid ground while he screwed around there.
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rockrat511
Oct 2, 2004, 4:45 PM
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His hand hold broke. He went for the fun ride.
Any one know where, what route that is?
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climber4life
Oct 2, 2004, 4:46 PM
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I don't think logically, I just see how big the wall looks from my point of view. And it is a pity about the lack of subtitles.
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rope_burn
Oct 2, 2004, 5:51 PM
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Play the clip frame by frame and notice how he almost hits his rope as he falls. It looks like his first clip was like a foot below where he was originally standing meaning he ran out what looked to be like 60 feet without any protection.
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jakedatc
Oct 2, 2004, 6:16 PM
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yea.. he went for one hell of a ride.. but you figure it's not underbolted.. the guy even said "i cant fall now" or something like that.. it was probly 5.9-10 above that bolt.. 15 feet run out to the anchor .. which was placed above his head i guess.. i think the fall distance came from a) he yarded up like 900 feet of slack to make that clip.. b) they are all belaying on gri gri's.petzl comp..duh hehe and giving dynamic belays (see dave get yanked off the ground at the beginning).. so 15x2 for being above the bolt.. then add like another 6 feet+ of slack to clip 50 footer is my guess maybe 60 if my runout guess is a bit off
not over til it's over man hehe
Edit: Rope burn the rope he almost hits is the fixed line for the photographer
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slablizard
Oct 2, 2004, 7:03 PM
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Hmmmmmmm Awesome.
Miss Europe sometimes. So much good rock. So much less paranoia
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piep
Oct 2, 2004, 7:20 PM
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Wanna climb with these guys, including Dave, Chris, Beth, all the Euros, etc..? Keep an eye on the climbing mags and the Petzl site for the Spring 2005 announcement of the next Petzl Roc Trip in North America... location???
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petsfed
Oct 2, 2004, 7:23 PM
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In reply to: Climber.. you gotta think.. they are using at max 70m ropes.. and are being lowered so thats 45m max to the top of the route thats like 150 ft or something ... that wall is beautiful though i like most of the petzl vids.. they are done well.. i wish they put in subtitles more for the non french folks but ehh what can you do
Closer to 110, being that 70 divided by 2 is 35. Cool stuff. Link is just about overwhelmed though.
And you gotta love Chris Sharma hamming it up in the background while Lynn Hill talks about how hard the route was (in French).
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jakedatc
Oct 2, 2004, 7:29 PM
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woops.. brain obviously wasnt into doing math this morning lol :oops:
i wish she had noticed and like kicked his ass haha
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climber4life
Oct 2, 2004, 7:34 PM
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He did hit the rope. With force. notice as he swings in past the rope it's wobbling. I wanted to know what else he would've said if he didn't fall.
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jakedatc
Oct 2, 2004, 8:03 PM
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yea.. he hit the photographers rope..which had to left some good rope burns.. the belay side of his rope is tucked under the roof due to the quickdraws holding it in there..
hehe yea.. he was pretty darn confident but his moment of video glory turned from a great send into a sweet whipper haha
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boulderingmadman
Oct 2, 2004, 10:33 PM
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watch it frame by frame and youll see that he actually pushes the photog's rope out of the way as he swings towards it.
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tyify
Oct 2, 2004, 10:34 PM
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SICK! That is one of the coolest videos I've seen in a while! Keep it up Petzl!
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valeberga
Oct 2, 2004, 10:37 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Climber.. you gotta think.. they are using at max 70m ropes.. and are being lowered so thats 45m max to the top of the route thats like 150 ft or something ... that wall is beautiful though i like most of the petzl vids.. they are done well.. i wish they put in subtitles more for the non french folks but ehh what can you do Closer to 110, being that 70 divided by 2 is 35. Cool stuff. Link is just about overwhelmed though. And you gotta love Chris Sharma hamming it up in the background while Lynn Hill talks about how hard the route was (in French).
Let's not be half-assed here.
1 m = 3.3 ft
Do it in your head easily:
1. distance in meters
2. multiply (1) by three
3. divide (2) by 10, add to (2)
so:
1. 35
*3 =
2. 105
+10.5 =
3. 115.5
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petsfed
Oct 2, 2004, 10:45 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Climber.. you gotta think.. they are using at max 70m ropes.. and are being lowered so thats 45m max to the top of the route thats like 150 ft or something ... that wall is beautiful though i like most of the petzl vids.. they are done well.. i wish they put in subtitles more for the non french folks but ehh what can you do Closer to 110, being that 70 divided by 2 is 35. Cool stuff. Link is just about overwhelmed though. And you gotta love Chris Sharma hamming it up in the background while Lynn Hill talks about how hard the route was (in French). Let's not be half-assed here. 1 m = 3.3 ft Do it in your head easily: 1. distance in meters 2. multiply (1) by three 3. divide (2) by 10, add to (2) so: 1. 35 *3 = 2. 105 +10.5 = 3. 115.5
I was using 39" = 1 m, in which case 3.25'= 1 m. Different contants produce different results.
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myst
Oct 3, 2004, 12:56 AM
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Oh man! It's like, "where'd my friggin' hold go!?!?!?" You can see his hands scrambling with the rope, trying to find something to grab...that would be terrifying! ...but so sweet... and such a story to tell afterwards!
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