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PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8
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jay07


Oct 4, 2004, 11:25 AM
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PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8
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I recently saw a similar post but am not able to find it now via Search.

I would like to do my 1st 1-day multi-pitch climbing in Yosemite this month or early next month. From recent climbing it seems I better stick to [indigo]5.7-5.8[/indigo]. [indigo]Maybe [/indigo]routes/spots of 5.9 ok subject to leader's "coaching" skills. Munginella + Selaginella link looks interesting. Munginella maybe not challenging enough?

I [indigo]enjoy [/indigo]height/elevation/exposure, cracks, lie-backs, chimneys, stemming.

So what would you experienced Yos climbers recommend for this [indigo]virgin Yosemite climbing day [/indigo]for me? Note: I would engage an experienced guide to lead, I'd just follow/clean/etc.

Thank you very much for your suggestions!


caughtinside


Oct 4, 2004, 11:31 AM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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Munge/selaginella is a good linkup.

I'd also recommend Nutcracker on Manure pile. First two pitches are easy, so you get warmed up for the fun part. Good exposure, nice view from the top.

Have fun!


dsafanda


Oct 4, 2004, 11:40 AM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Note: I would engage an experienced guide to lead, I'd just follow/clean/etc.

Don't you think your guide(the one leading) will be the one suggesting what route you guys do? If there's a specific route that you feel you must do then feel free to suggest it to the guide but I would defer to his/her judgement. That's what you're paying them for. Relax and go have fun as the follower. You'll be in the Valley. It's all good.


forbin


Oct 4, 2004, 12:01 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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Beware, on my first visit to the Valley, i found the ratings to be stiff. I think it was a combination of a lot of "old school" ratings, and moderate routes that have been polished and fully lubed by sweaty hands. That being said, Munginella is great, as is After Six (although it is probably now 5.8, not 5.7, since a bush/block fell off the first pitch). I also recommend Bishop's Terrace and Little John Right.


indigo_nite


Oct 4, 2004, 12:05 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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hi, I'm no yosemite expert but found the supertopo (chris mcnamara's) site very helpful:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/yosemite.html

have fun for me. the scale of yosemite is breathtaking.


mgr


Oct 4, 2004, 12:22 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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Hope you have fun. I hope to get out there some day.


jay07


Oct 4, 2004, 1:19 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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Thanks dsafanda, I have contacted the guide asking this same thing but while awaiting his reply thought i'd ask the forum so maybe be ready to suggest other ideas to him.....and also just to hear multiple perspectives. Good advice!


jay07


Oct 4, 2004, 1:35 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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I keep wondering if I am not using the several "Search" functions improperly. E.g. I search the Routes for "nutcracker", or for "after six" and I get a listing of various Yosemite sections and routes but not specifically for these routes. I select "CA" for the "State" and "Yosemite" for the "Area" and say "nutcracker" for the "Specific Route" and don't find nutcracker. Suggestions? Thank you again!


maculated


Oct 4, 2004, 1:37 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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The search function isn't working well right now.

Go to USA - California - yosemite - manure pile buttress - nutcracker.


pornstarr


Oct 4, 2004, 1:41 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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ditto everyone else.


maybe even Royal Arches or Snake Dike if you're in for a full day's climb


jay07


Oct 4, 2004, 1:42 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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Aha! Thank you! (and I was sorry to read your story about Geo Gipson!)


mjroche


Oct 4, 2004, 1:45 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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I agree with the other posters who say to go to Manure Pile Buttress. I had just a couple days in Yosemite several years ago, and After 6, After 7 and Nitcracker are great, all in the 5.7-5.8 range.


jklinke


Oct 4, 2004, 2:14 PM
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Re: PERFECT 1st Yosemite Climb Day 5.7-5.8 [In reply to]
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If you like cracks, try Bishop's Terrace (5.8, 2 pitches) at Churchbowl or Harry Daley (5.8, 2 pitches) at the Glacier Point Apron. Churchbowl Lieback is only 1 pitch, but a sweet 5.8.


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