Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
heal hook - the enemy?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


climber_trev


May 22, 2002, 10:23 PM
Post #1 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 15, 2002
Posts: 57

heal hook - the enemy?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The title basically tells the story, im a bit (or a lot) weak when it comes to doing heal hooks. The thing is where i climb there arn't a lot of them around, does anyone have any tips for making them easier for me to do. On the odd occasion that i go to the climbing gym, most of the climbs have them, they feel weird but i can do them is this just a case of practice makes perfect or is there something i can do to improve my this tech.

thats heaps!

climber_trev


colin


May 23, 2002, 12:49 PM
Post #2 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 2, 2001
Posts: 708

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Is it lack of strength that keeps you from pulling them? Or can you not get your heel to "hook" the hold?


climber_trev


May 23, 2002, 3:17 PM
Post #3 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 15, 2002
Posts: 57

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

its a bit of both, some holds i cant seem to get an effective hook on it ... this is annoying and on big hooks that involve really cranking from the hold i have trouble.

hope this clears this up

climber_trev


miagi


May 23, 2002, 9:34 PM
Post #4 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 1087

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, if the heel hook is small, the only advice I can give is for you to point your heel into the hold at an angle. You can get more contact with the hold and your heel wont slip off as easily.

As for strength in your heel hooks: Some heel hooks require you to pull up with your legs. The only advice for that is to lift weights for your "back quads?", and practice. I have never had to use the actual heel hook for strength to pull me up. The only reasons I use heel hooks are to balance myself, give my hands/arms a rest, or aid my hands/arms in a move.


climber_trev


May 24, 2002, 3:21 PM
Post #5 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 15, 2002
Posts: 57

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

true Miagi, thats my deal ... most of my heal hook experience is with as you said locking off or balance. Im uncomfortable when it comes to using it for an actual upwards movement (if you can understand that!)

peace

climber_trev


toobigtoclimb


May 24, 2002, 3:42 PM
Post #6 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 426

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I used to use heel hooks alot. I think that you have to be light and strong. I can't do them any more, that's for sure!!


crux_clipper


May 24, 2002, 10:26 PM
Post #7 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 13, 2001
Posts: 531

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

For say, pulling the lip off a heel hook, rock on over. Pull in with the leg that hooked, slide your foot back so the ball of the foot is on the hold, and push up.

Easier said then done though


beyond_gravity


May 26, 2002, 11:29 AM
Post #8 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 1, 2002
Posts: 5076

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I dont really push up when I heel hook, I get my heel on then make a quick movement to a higher hold. Then move my foot to somting non-heel.


ktwo


May 26, 2002, 11:38 AM
Post #9 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 443

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The thing that I find heel hooks useful for are to bring your center of gravity up, so you can reach a hold that is just a few inches too high.


kaptk


May 30, 2002, 5:38 AM
Post #10 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 5, 2001
Posts: 423

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Working on your flexability might make the heel hooks work better. The more flexible, the less akward you will feel in that position and the better you will be able to use it. I will also repeat that it is important how you are placing your heel on the hold. I hope the flexability thing helps.


clymber


May 30, 2002, 6:41 AM
Post #11 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 8, 2002
Posts: 1259

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I cant do heal hooks with slippers my heal keeps slipping out. Try lace shoes. I Know it s starting to get nice and the last place you want to be is in a gym but make up boulder problems that require healhooks. The only way to get goodat somethingis to do it and then do it some more..According to my partner I am a heal hook champ..think he is smoking that wacky stuff..Hooks help alot after pulling that roof move gives a good rest for a arm and you are able to chalk up before going on...Keep trying it


metoliusmunchkin


May 30, 2002, 1:02 PM
Post #12 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 7, 2001
Posts: 1410

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm afraid it is very hard to give some advice, as the information given slides to and from ´╗┐ambiguousness. I also find this very unusual (no offense), as I have never really had trouble with heel hooks in the past, nor do I now. Perhaps this is due to the fact that I am a young bugger.

Moreover, the situation whence you will use a heel hook may be improper. What I mean is, perhaps you are not utilizing the heel hook when it is most needed, and are perhaps neglecting to use it when it is in fact most needed.

Whilst climbing a vertical wall (depending on its hold placements - for indoor climbing - also based on the hold availability - more so outdoor than indoor climbing) many a time, a heal hook is not needed. Perhaps you find the "heel hook awkwardness" while climbing a vertical route.

Personally, if I find slight difficulty upon a vertical route, I tend to toe-scum rather than heal hook for a slight gain in balance while performing the action.

If I were to use a heel hook however, I would most definitely use it while attempting to overcome a shelf. After climbing your way atop a roof, it is most essential that a heel hook is needed to overcome the ledge that awaits you up ahead. Otherwise there is a much difficult rock path that you have chosen.


colin


May 30, 2002, 1:18 PM
Post #13 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 2, 2001
Posts: 708

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Try doing hamstring curls (is there another name for those???) on a universal. It sounds like you lack the strength to pull your body weight on your heel while keeping enough tension in your leg to keep your foot hooked.

[ This Message was edited by: colin on 2002-05-31 11:33 ]


stevematthys


May 30, 2002, 8:33 PM
Post #14 of 14 (2286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248

heal hook - the enemy? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hamstring curls would probably work


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$16.16 (10% off)
$40.46 (10% off)
$4.46 (10% off)
$77.36 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook