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skibabeage
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Oct 8, 2004, 7:24 PM
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overlord


Oct 9, 2004, 10:15 AM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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When I reached the top of White Zombie I was fresh.

now, thats something. he didnt only onsight the thing, he still had some juice left.

props to THE man.


renhoek


Oct 9, 2004, 10:48 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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difference between onsight and redpoint?


eshi-1
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Oct 10, 2004, 11:20 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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On-sight - Finishing a route (ground to top) on the first try without ever trying it before and not having any prior beta about it, , placing your protection as you go.

Pink-point - Like on-sight, but pre-placing your protection (I wonder how many climbers are aware of this?).

Flash-ascent - Finishing a route (ground to top) on the first try without ever trying it before BUT after getting some beta about it (seeing someone else on it, or getting tips from someone).

Red-point - Acomplishing a climb on a second or more tries.

:wink: I hope this helps,

E


duckwalk


Oct 11, 2004, 10:28 AM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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yuji is my hero. that is seriously just amazing.


stevep


Oct 11, 2004, 10:33 AM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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Pink-point - Like on-sight, but pre-placing your protection (I wonder how many climbers are aware of this?).

E

Apparently, you fall into the not aware camp. Pinkpoint is not much used these days in the hard sport climbing world, but when it is, it is not as you described.
It used to be that a redpoint meant a no-falls ascent of a route while placing pro, having previously attempted and fallen.
Pinkpoint is the same thing, except with gear already in place. It certainly implies having prior attempts, not like on-sight.


andy_reagan


Oct 11, 2004, 1:49 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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what a bad ass, major props to anyone onsighting that hard. Thats motivating!


tchin


Oct 13, 2004, 1:49 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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if you want more news from yuji ,now is climb in south of france near nice
in GORGES DU LOUP ,area deversÚ,he have project to redpoint kinematix
9a(5.14d) http://www.nice-climb.com


climbaddic


Oct 14, 2004, 12:20 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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Yuji is one of the best climbers in the world, but according ot www.petzl.com, Dave Graham sent "Baston Ó la maison" 8C (5.14b) on first try. So how is Yuji the first person to send 8C?


dgt2n


Oct 14, 2004, 3:56 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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hes not the first person to CLIMB 8c..hes the first person to on-sight it (see definition above).


climbaddic


Oct 15, 2004, 9:23 AM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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Dave Graham sent "Baston Ó la maison" 8C (5.14b) on first try
This makes it least flash or maybe onsight.


osho


Oct 16, 2004, 1:16 AM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Dave Graham sent "Baston Ó la maison" 8C (5.14b) on first try
This makes it least flash or maybe onsight.

And since people seem to be saying that Yuji's send was the first 8c On-sight.. it'd imply that Dave's was the former.


crux_clipper


Oct 17, 2004, 10:19 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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according to his 8s.nu account, dave sent that 8C route second shot.

but who really cares?

go yuji!


lardbutt


May 18, 2005, 11:34 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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Many climbers now days say "first try" meaning they've worked the route, and then climbed it on thelr first redpoint attempt. There is a school of thought that would call this second try. It's somantics: not counting a work session as an actual try. Yuji is so far ahead of everybody else right now: first 8c onsight, and still the only climber to attempt el cap onsight - a feat that nobody else seems ready to even contemplate.


gearsighted


May 19, 2005, 1:54 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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I was actually under the impression that Leo Houlding had tried a route on El Cap onsite at one time...though I can't remember which route. The story about the ordeal was featured in Climbing about a year or so ago, in the El Cap issue.

But, back on topic, Yuji, you da' man!! :D


cfmwh


May 27, 2005, 2:57 PM
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Re: Yuji Hirayama On-sights 8c [In reply to]
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But the important thing is to have fun. Thankfully there is lots of space in climbing for people to interpret it as they choose; there are many different styles and strategies, everyone has their own personal opinion. This is what I like about climbing: it's free.

YES!!!
Great quote. So true.


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