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youngphil
Oct 14, 2004, 3:24 PM
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Im trying to plan a trip to Colorado in a month or so and was wanting to know about some of yalls favorite Trad climbs around RMNP, Denver, and Boulder. Anything up to 5.9, maybe 5.10, single or multi pitch. Any imput would we wonderful. Thanks
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nthusiastj
Oct 14, 2004, 3:29 PM
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Check out Climbingboulder.com It has any info on the area you could want. Being from texas you may want to bring plenty of warm clothes if you plan on climbing. J
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timstich
Oct 14, 2004, 3:39 PM
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When you get here you can visit a local climbing gear shop and browse the guide books. Depending on the weather, just about anything will be available. Some sunny fall days are good for climbing at the lowland crags like Eldorado Canyon and the Flatirons. The sub-alpine crags like Lumpy Ridge and alpine areas like RMNP will be pretty cold, but you might be lucky. Whatever you do, do some snow hikes while you are here. Hard to find that white stuff in College Station. heh.
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flamer
Oct 14, 2004, 3:54 PM
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Some of my favorite's..... 5.4- The 3rd Flat iron, Standard east face route. 5.5- east crack on the dome in boulder canyon, fandago on the 1st flat iron, Icarus on Redguarden wall in Eldorado canyon. 5.6- 1st flatiron east face route, Batman and Robin at Lumpy ridge, Osiris on the book at Lumry ridge, calypso on the wind tower in Eldorado canyon, Organ Pipes on the lower owls at Lumpy ridge. 5.7- The Bastille crack in Eldorado canyon, The standard route on the 3rd Elephant buttress in boulder canyon, Kor'sFlake on Sundance at Lumpy ridge, Hand over hand on Batman rock at Lumpy. 5.8 Long John wall on the west ridge at Eldo, Grapevine on Sundance at lumpy, Rewritten on redguarden wall at Eldo, windridge on the wind tower in Eldo(not much 5.8), Ruper on redguarden wall Eldo. 5.9- Werk supp on the Bastille-Eldo(do the second pitch!!), Femp on the book At Lumpy ridge, Betwist'm to Mainliner on sundance At Lumpy, Hair city on the Bastille in Eldo. 5.10- Blind Faith on the Bastille in Eldo, Fat city on the book at Lumpy, Toot! on the book at Lumpy, Left wing on the 3rd Elephant buttruss in boulder canyon, yellow spur on Redguarden wall Eldo. There are more but I'd hope this would get you pointed in the right direction. josh
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couchwarrior
Oct 14, 2004, 3:58 PM
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Neptune in Boulder has a little pamphlet with a tick list for all the grades you mention. Nice resource for the visiting climber.
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fitzontherocks
Oct 14, 2004, 4:59 PM
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Neptune Mountaineering's website has a list of their staff's favorites climbs by grade. Very good resource. We just got back from Boulder Tuesday. Did Rewritten in Eldo... great 6-pitch climb, beautiful views and exposure. Hit Clear Creek Canyon for some gerat sport climbing. It's just outside Golden. Have fun!
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 14, 2004, 5:53 PM
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So many routes, so little time. Flamer's tick list is a great one. You might also look through a copy of Serious Play at Neptune, has a good list of routes in the 5.2 - 5.9 range on the front range (particulary good selection of stuff in Boulder Canyon and Eldo). Rossiter's Best of Boulder has a good selection of routes in it as well (if you wanted to get by with just one guidebook for BC / Eldo that's a good one).
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takeme
Oct 14, 2004, 5:53 PM
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Josh has a really good list. I've done all of these except for Left Wing and would recommend any of them (wasn't a huge fan of Femp, I guess). Two that I'd say are also must-dos at Lumpy are Pear Buttress and Loose Ends (both in the 8-9 range). Lumpy could be pretty cold and snowy in November, though. In Eldo, I'm also a big fan of Green Spur (5.9+) and any route on Rincon that finishes with the second pitch of Over the Hill. This pitch might be my favorite 5.9 pitch in the Boulder area! Keep in mind too that the Yellow Spur can also be done at 5.9--I actually like it better this way.
In reply to: Some of my favorite's..... 5.4- The 3rd Flat iron, Standard east face route. 5.5- east crack on the dome in boulder canyon, fandago on the 1st flat iron, Icarus on Redguarden wall in Eldorado canyon. 5.6- 1st flatiron east face route, Batman and Robin at Lumpy ridge, Osiris on the book at Lumry ridge, calypso on the wind tower in Eldorado canyon, Organ Pipes on the lower owls at Lumpy ridge. 5.7- The Bastille crack in Eldorado canyon, The standard route on the 3rd Elephant buttress in boulder canyon, Kor'sFlake on Sundance at Lumpy ridge, Hand over hand on Batman rock at Lumpy. 5.8 Long John wall on the west ridge at Eldo, Grapevine on Sundance at lumpy, Rewritten on redguarden wall at Eldo, windridge on the wind tower in Eldo(not much 5.8), Ruper on redguarden wall Eldo. 5.9- Werk supp on the Bastille-Eldo(do the second pitch!!), Femp on the book At Lumpy ridge, Betwist'm to Mainliner on sundance At Lumpy, Hair city on the Bastille in Eldo. 5.10- Blind Faith on the Bastille in Eldo, Fat city on the book at Lumpy, Toot! on the book at Lumpy, Left wing on the 3rd Elephant buttruss in boulder canyon, yellow spur on Redguarden wall Eldo. There are more but I'd hope this would get you pointed in the right direction. josh
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 14, 2004, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: In Eldo, I'm also a big fan of Green Spur (5.9+) and any route on Rincon that finishes with the second pitch of Over the Hill. This pitch might be my favorite 5.9 pitch in the Boulder area! I totally agree - p2 of Over the Hill is super fun. There are also several other good moderate routes on and around Rincon (and Upper West Ridge has several very nice 5.10's that are pretty easy by Eldo standards).
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youngphil
Oct 14, 2004, 11:42 PM
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Thanks for all yalls imput. Ill check into all of those. Cant wait to get out there...oh yeah Timstich: i have been living outside of creede colorado the past 3 summers but i have never been in late november...i have experience in snow travel and glacier travel...exactly how cold is it during late november...or anyone in colorado
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