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climballnight
Oct 18, 2004, 2:20 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2004
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Hey, does anyone know what the propper way to search for first ascent info is for a given area? Here at Rock Mountain, there are a handful of older bolts, and I just wanted to make sure that we allow for all due credit on the stuff that might have been climbed already.
TIA!
- bret
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mungeclimber
Oct 18, 2004, 6:27 AM
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posting up is a start, ask the local climbing shops, then start getting phone numbers of all the climbers you know and ask them to ask and follow up with you. Slow but possible. Any guidebooks out? Often names are displayed and you can check the phone book out after.
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climballnight
Oct 18, 2004, 6:42 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. I've dug and dug for books or beta on the area, but from what I can figure it must not exist. I think in the late 80's there was a climbing club leasing (?) the property, from a fellow named Malcom Vinci (sp?), before it was taken over by the local water district and then donated to the Fallbrook Land Conservancy. I don't live around there anymore, but maybe that's our next step.... that is unless anyone on RC.com know's the history.
- bret
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stein_errrr
Dec 9, 2004, 5:01 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Some more info for you, a buddy and I were climbing up there two weeks ago and ran into a kid who'd grown up around there. He said that the bolts had been put in sometime in the last 3 years, but wasn't sure when since that's when he'd moved away. He also told us about a couple of Trad routes directly below the Turkey's nest, as well as some fully bolted sport routes off to the east of those.
At any rate, did you ever try the route on the other side of the arete from Two Step? It's a good problem, my buddy Blake climbed it first and wanted to call it Dumkopf (because we thought we were warming up on Two Step, but realized it was way harder than a 5.6 more like a 10b when we got spit off the crux the first couple of times) but we also weren't sure of the etiquette because of the lack of beta. In any case, the area's a fun day trip, thanks for posting that it was out there.
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climballnight
Dec 9, 2004, 6:50 AM
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Thanks for the feedback! If you knew the name of the kid you met, I might know who he is. The only who I've known who knew much about the climbing up there was my best friend from junior high, but he was killed a couple years ago in a car accident, before I ever got into climbing. He did have a brother who I've since lost touch with.
Yeah I tried the left side of the arête once, and found the first half to be a fun trad-able 5.6-7 (you think?) but then I got to the second half which just got ridiculous. I'd say 5.10+ but I'm not a 5.10 climber so I had to aid on the rope a little. Sweet route.
I scrambled around on the lower stuff last time I was there and planned to come back and search out some actual routes down there, as well as on the north side, but due to the rain and the calling of J-tree lately, I haven't made it back down there.
I'm admittedly a chronic sandbagger so let me know if you think any of the ratings or beta I list up there are off.
Did you try the rappel off the south east side? I even left a metolius cam up there once for the anchor (arg!!!). It'll be like that movie The Sword in the Stone if anyone can get it out.
Thanks again for the feedback!
- bret
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climballnight
Dec 9, 2004, 6:52 AM
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Oh, at least some of the bolts have been there for more than 3 years because they were there when I was little. There were some on a glossy route far around to the right though. Those looked newer. Are those what he was talking about?
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feetfirst
Dec 16, 2011, 12:12 AM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2011
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so there is a good 5 new routes on rock mountain that have been sport bolted, rated between 5.11-5.12d, heading up there on saturday with the guy who placed the routes. will post them official after the trip.
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socalrocks
Dec 18, 2011, 5:09 AM
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Registered: Jul 9, 2011
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If anyone wants to head out here this week (or soon), let me know! I've only been out there once and did some top roping, but would love to explore more...
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