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Home made bolts
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beyond_gravity


May 26, 2002, 7:52 AM
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Home made bolts
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Last weekend I was climbing a 2 pitch route that was all rusted up home made bolts. Like ya know the bolts that are just a plate of steel with a hold drilled in them? Anyways, almost all of them were loose...I tried to tighten them but they were so rusted I couldnt even turn my wrench. The route was only 5.8 and the anchors were shiney new fixe bolts. What I find strange is that the first 2 (Visible) Bolts are shiny new petzls. Whats the route setter trying to pull here?


mitchal


May 26, 2002, 9:24 AM
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HUH?
This post has me totaly confused,or is it just me.
Shiny new petzl bolts,too rusted to turn.New fixe anchors on nuts too rusted to tighten?How did they get new anchors on old bolts?
My head is spinning,must lie down.
Climb Happy
Mitch


beyond_gravity


May 26, 2002, 9:28 AM
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I ment that they must have choped the old bolts and replaced them with new ones on the achnors, and the first 2 bolts. Leaving all the bolts inbetween rusty, old, loose and home made.


bshaftoe


May 26, 2002, 10:19 AM
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The first ascentionist undoubtedly did the best with what they had, but the fact is that homemade hangars are always suspect. Especially old rusted ones. What is likely is that local climbers have taken it upon themselves to rebolt and replace the dangerous bolts.

Ed Leeper has recalled up to 95,000 of his old hangars that are susceptible to breaking under body weight. They were a commercial product, I would be willing to bet that the homemade stuff is much weaker.

One of the scariest rappells I ever did was off of two homemade hangars made of aircraft aluminum. Somebody took a rectangle of material, drilled two holes in either side and bent the metal at a 90 degree angle. As you weighted the bolts, you could actually see the aluminum flex. Fortunately, there was a flake nearby that we wrapped webbing around to backup the death bolts.

Do yourself a favor and get familiar with the bolts you are clipping. Some good info can be found here.

[ This Message was edited by: bshaftoe on 2002-05-26 10:23 ]


woodse


May 26, 2002, 12:32 PM
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Hey bshaftoe,

Thanks for the great info, I can't beleive that there are so many hangers out there that are prone to catastrophic failure! Yikes!!!!!

woodsE


bshaftoe


May 26, 2002, 4:23 PM
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The route I referenced above, "Western Grebe" at the Black Peeler butress in Little Cottonwood canyon received new bomber anchors thanks to the ASCA.

Check out the routes that the ASCA have made safe, and consider making a donation.

[ This Message was edited by: bshaftoe on 2002-05-26 16:24 ]


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