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pupjr
May 28, 2002, 1:03 AM
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I want to get better at pockets darnit. BUT there's this tendon. (right hand, ring finger)that i keep popping/pulling. whatever it may be. So i'm afriad to do much pockets, even with other fingers, cause i'm pretty sure those are just as weak. So what i'm asking is how to strenghten those finger tendons, any advice would be great. thanks everyone
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sharmagod
May 28, 2002, 1:17 AM
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I would only climb on holds I would feel comfortable with.If your fingers feel stessed on some of the smaller holds go for ones that are slightly bigger.Give them time to strengthen.Thats all it takes.In the long run it will be strong and you will be able to go for those smaller holds.Take it easy!!!
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kerouac
May 28, 2002, 4:09 AM
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Have you tried taping your finger. Friends of mine have the same problem and that's what they do. And take it slow. You don't want to f**k it up for good.
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badger
May 28, 2002, 4:15 AM
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Any advice for elbows?
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kerouac
May 28, 2002, 4:34 AM
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Badger
You could try a neoprene wrap that you could get at any pharmacy. It works much like the tape but you can slip it on and off. If your elbow is really sore, you should rest it a couple of weeks at least. And that means doing nothing ( Climbing , bouldering, weight training, etc.) I recently blew out my knee and that was the best advice my doctor gave me. It sucked because I had to cancel a trip to J-Tree in March but at least I can climb the remainder of this season. Hope this helps.
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kerouac
May 28, 2002, 5:05 AM
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Check out this site
www.bodyresults.com/e2fingertendons.asp
It has what you're looking for.
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crux_clipper
May 28, 2002, 6:26 AM
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I had the same problem, with both hands...one after the other. Just take a good month off, and come back slowly, not using pockets, and easing back into the rythm of things. Having taken a month off, you'll need to build up your strength again anyways.
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pupjr
May 28, 2002, 7:03 PM
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Thanks a lot for the responses guys! And the website was really helpful. my fingers thank you!
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mtngypsy
May 29, 2002, 5:08 PM
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Hay pupjr go see a doctor, sounds like you may have injuried a tendon. Sometimes with a complete ripping of the tendon away from the bone you may experiance very little pain. Whatever it is if you play home doctor with your tendons and continue to climb you may end up a life long injury that will always effect your climbing.
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huandoy
Jun 11, 2002, 11:15 AM
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Well, I had a problem with my middle finger of my left hand, and I get off my climb for two weeks, and I made some exersices to my fingers, like squeeze a ball or use a grip master, but have carefull with the strengh of that. The another thing that I made is put ice or cold thing in the injurie finger after the climb adn you fell better and your finger don't injurie more
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huandoy
Jun 11, 2002, 11:17 AM
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Well, I had a problem with my middle finger of my left hand, and I get off my climb for two weeks, and I made some exersices to my fingers, like squeeze a ball or use a grip master, but have carefull with the strengh of that. The another thing that I made is put ice or cold thing in the injurie finger after the climb adn you fell better and your finger don't injurie more
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treyr
Jun 11, 2002, 11:48 AM
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Yeah my tendons are so bad. I had tendinitis and was in a cast for a week.
Trob
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kriso9tails
Jun 12, 2002, 6:08 AM
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Somebody mentioned taping... that's okay if you still climb caustiously or your problem is really mild, but I knew a couple of climbers who would tape for that same problem. What they said ended up happening is that they weren't bothered by their tendon problems as much so they pushed as hard as normal and ended up making things much worse. It might make it easier to climb, but it won't stop you from causing more damage.
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traide
Jun 12, 2002, 6:29 AM
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taping for injuries for climbing, as in taping for injuries in other sports, i not a good long term, or even moderate term, solution. by supporting injured tissue, taping discourages the tissue from naturally regenerating, because the body is relying on the tape.
for occasional, mild soreness, taping is ok. above that, give the injury plenty of rest, and slowly excercise it back.
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cman
Jul 3, 2002, 1:46 AM
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I ripped my A2 right ring real good two months ago. This was the second time so I knew I had to lay off. The last time it hurt for years because I kept climbing. Cold turkey for two weeks followed by light, and I mean light, boldering. Stop when you think your finger might be hurtin'. Stick with endurance training for a few months to keep the blood flow up and speed recovery. In two months I went from having a huge swollen finger to climbing pain free. Oh yah, I used the x tape job for support.
craig.
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pupjr
Jul 5, 2002, 11:57 PM
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Thanks a lot guys for all your responses, you all have helped a lot. I have relaxed on it quite a bit, and have been coming back at a decent pace. And now it feels great, and i've been climbing great with no pain. The taping idea is a great idea criag. and if it does start up again i will see the doctor like someone suggusted earlier in this post. Thanks again, climb hard!
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dyno2finish
Jul 20, 2002, 4:38 AM
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If you just need to strengthen your tendons get the "Grip Saver Plus" by Metolious. But if your finger hurts every time you climb. Go to a doctor. I'm in therapy now b/c i waited instead of going to a doc right away.....i might even need surgery! Good luck and take care of yourself!
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nikolisper
Jul 25, 2002, 7:52 AM
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Do tendons actually get stronger on smaller holds when using bigger ones??
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upfreak
Jul 25, 2002, 8:09 AM
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Take it slow.... build up the strenght in your fingers progressively. As was said... start with the hold ur comfortable with and move to the harders ones when yoour tendons are stronger. As was stressed... you don wana f---'EM up for good....
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need_for_climbing
Jul 25, 2002, 8:19 AM
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My advice is try resting ur tendons for a month or 2. I rather have a fully rested finger from climbing THEN a teared tendon which relly hurts alot.. After resting ur fingers try holding easier holds then as u bulid up ur tendon strength go to harder and harder until u get to pockets.
Rock On
Chris
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cragmyre
Jul 25, 2002, 9:54 AM
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Tendons develope at roughly half the speed as muscle, if they start to hurt, let the pain subside, then wait at least two weeks after that before loading them again. See a doc if persists. Try investing in a hang board and following the recommended exercises to the letter. Rembember: most people get better at climbing faster than the white tissue(tendons/ligaments) develope.
Climb On
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