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pneumatized
May 28, 2002, 2:49 PM
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I posted this in the general forum, but didn't get a huge response: Ok, I dunno if this has been discussed here recently, as I'm new to the site, but does anyone have any information (anecdotal or otherwise) about climbing causing or contributing to arthritis or generalized joint pain or lack of mobility over the long term? I climbed pretty heavy for a few years, but had to quit when I decided to learn how to play a stringed instrument. Now that I'm somewhat proficient (at mandolin) I've started climbing again, but I'm wondering about possible long-term effects of climbing on my fingers. I've heard some musicians say that climbing helps their playing, but what about 10-20-30 years later? Any info is greatly appreciated!
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traddad
May 28, 2002, 3:04 PM
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My knuckles are the size of #10 stoppers. My middle fingers are twisting off to one side. I can't close my hands to make a fist. My shoulders constantly hurt. It's osteo-arthritis. It's caused by over use. Mine is caused by climbing. I'll never play the violin again. The tenor sax is a different matter Wanna see my X-rays? Traddad [ This Message was edited by: traddad on 2002-05-28 08:06 ]
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pneumatized
May 28, 2002, 3:25 PM
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Jeez. . . .that's terrible, man. I'm glad you do have an instrument you can play, though. I had a conversation with an experienced climber who said taping my fingers properly and just being careful from day one could help prevent a lot of stiffness/injuries. Do you feel like your immobility is from cranking HARD or just climbing in general? He suggested that alot of injury and overuse immobility comes from harder climbing (ie above 5.10 or so). I really want to climb, but want to be able to play my instrument when I'm 60. . .any advice?
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sheppe
May 28, 2002, 4:26 PM
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I know a lady climber who has arthritis. She says climbing didn't cause the arthritis, but she ended up having to give up climbing because of it. -Sheppe
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traddad
May 28, 2002, 4:29 PM
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It comes from climbing hard and often. It also probably doesn't help that I weigh 190. My advice is to stay off crimpy routes, finger jams etc and to try to use open grips whenever possible. Also: -Stretch -Warm up (I warm a towel up in the microwave and squeeze and twist it for a while before climbing). -Ice your mitts after cranking -Stay hydrated -Use NSAIDS to cut down on swelling BEFORE climbing -Find out if Glucosamine and Condrotin (SP?) work for you. Traddad
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sagarmatha
May 29, 2002, 10:35 PM
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One guy I climb with from time to time told me that he took up climbing quite because he was suffering from Arthritis. He told me that climbing actually reduced his pain - apparently stretching the joints the way we do while climbing (not to the point of injury, obvioulsy) is good therapy.
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dsafanda
May 29, 2002, 11:16 PM
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Hmmm... I'm curious about this one. I've talked to two Orthopedic surgeons who told me climbing can't cause arthritis but it sure sounds like some of you would argue with them. I have to admit it seems sort of logical that over use via climbing could cause any number of joint problems.
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traddad
May 30, 2002, 1:39 PM
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From the Arthritis Foundation: Osteoarthritis (OA) What Is It? Osteoarthritis (OS-tee-oh-are-THRY-tis) (OA), or degenerative joint disease, is one of the oldest and most common types of arthritis. It is characterized by the breakdown of the joint's cartilage. Cartilage is the part of the joint that cushions the ends of bones. Cartilage breakdown causes bones to rub against each other, causing pain and loss of movement. Most commonly affecting middle-aged and older people, OA can range from very mild to very severe. It affects hands and weight-bearing joints such as knees, hips, feet and the back. What Causes It? There are many factors that can cause OA. Although age is a risk factor, research has shown that OA is not an inevitable part of aging. Obesity may lead to osteoarthritis of the knees. In addition, people with joint injuries due to sports, work-related activity or accidents may be at increased risk of developing OA. Genetics has a role in the development of OA, particularly in the hands. Some people may be born with defective cartilage or with slight defects in the way that joints fit together. As a person ages, these defects may cause early cartilage breakdown in the joint. In the process of cartilage breakdown, there may be some inflammation, with enzymes released and more cartilage damage.
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clam
May 30, 2002, 5:16 PM
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Traddad, for some reason I took great consolation in your original post. Sorry for your pain, but my middle knuckles are about the same as yours. Knuckles are way big. My fingers are starting develop these strange bends. I'm there brother, I'm there. If we ever meet let's give each other the middle finger salute; no not that one, the huge-middle-knuckle-old-climber's-salute. Keep climbing. That's what I say, until you can't. Check the knuckle out on this little guy. It's like mine; like a number three hexentric.:-)
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pneumatized
May 30, 2002, 5:40 PM
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Thanks evrybody for the info. . .I'm just gonna do what traddad said and try to play mando a little after I climb to keep my fingers from stiffining up or getting dumb. . . .I'll be sure to let everyone know what efftect (if any) there is on my playing or dexterity. I also spoke to someone the other day about taping well to help prevent injury. Any feedback on that? Thanks again!
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clam
May 30, 2002, 6:38 PM
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Pneumatized, I posted this somewhere else, I forget where, but I use exercise putty after I climb. It keep the fingers flexible and is pretty good exercise. You can buy in most sports stores. It comes in various resistance strengths. It also relieves tension so I keep one in my car.
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pneumatized
May 30, 2002, 7:05 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
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Thanks Clam!! I'm gonna try some of it---so far I've only seen it in the "very difficult" consistency. They are NOT kidding when they say "very dificult." I appreciate the tip--it seems like it would be perfect for keeping my fingers from stiffening.
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clam
May 30, 2002, 11:58 PM
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Pneumatized, go for it. They have it in easy and moderate strengths. It's great stuff. I'm sqeezin' some now. Hang in there. :-)
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