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charlessielicki
Oct 26, 2004, 12:41 AM
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Hello Over the summer my partner and I took climbing lessons including lessons on top roping. We would like to top rope (on Cathedral Ledge, North End) Child's Play (5.6) I have had two people tell me that it's dicy to set the top rope on this climb but in Ed Webster's book he says setting a top rope is possible without mention of it being dicy. (I have 3rd Ed., p201) Has anyone set a top rope in this area of the ledge and if so how dicy? Our lessons included experience in traversing the ledge top leading to Upper Refuse while roped in (4th class) Thanks Charlie
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slobmonster
Oct 26, 2004, 12:47 AM
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[This should be in Regional discussions...] Charlie, try posting your question on Neclimbs.com The reason the 4th-class approach to the top of the practice slabs is considered "dicey" is that people seem to keep getting hurt trying to find it. About a third of the way in between Childs Play & Kiddy Crack, and the damp slab known as the Thresher, is a big right-facing corner/ramp. Struggle up this, getting dirty in the process, and trend left, being careful not to fall into the drink. You'll see the tree that serves as the anchor for Kiddy Crack very shortly. You might find yourself in luck when you hike up there and find someone to set up a TR for you.
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bostonclimbah
Oct 26, 2004, 12:57 AM
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Setting a TR on Child's play is tricky and don't let anyone tell you different. The anchor is obviously very straight forward but the approach can really suck if you don't know what you're doing. The top is very often wet and therefore slippery (especially in autum with all of the wet leaves (and sometimes hidden ice). Accidents have occurred here. That said, it can be done but do this at your own risk. The path to the top is not completely obvious. Walk to the right of the route and you will see where the path starts just before the practice slabs. Most of the trees that you will need to grab aren't really worth a damn so watch your step. The trail sort of goes up and left. It sounds like you're just getting started so keep in mind that you will be setting up an anchor very close to the edge of the cliff or even on the edge if you decide to do Kiddy Crack. Fortunately, the anchor is 2 bolts. Just remember to extend it far enough. A couple of double length runners or a cordalette should do. The other option is to have someone lead up it for you. It's a popular area for beginners and there are lots of nice people there that would be happy to rope gun for you.
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charlessielicki
Oct 26, 2004, 10:28 AM
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Oops, better choice of this would have been in Regional....., sorry, next time. Thanks for the help. Right now I'll take the advice and see if someone can pull our rope up. Charlie
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edge
Oct 26, 2004, 1:10 PM
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Also, keep in mind that what goes up, must come down. If you do negotiate the slippery and devious approach to the anchors, how will you get your gear down when you are done? It's certainly possible to go back the same way, but you are now doubling the possibility of screwing up. I belive more accidents have happened on the North End Slabs than any other section of cliff because it is tricky and attracts relative beginners.
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edge
Oct 26, 2004, 1:12 PM
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edge moved this thread from Beginners to Regional Discussions.
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charlessielicki
Oct 27, 2004, 11:05 AM
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Yes, true. We are beginners but careful ones. So far we have been working on the climbs at Saco Crag (all 8s and 9s, there is a 10 we are working on also) and Square Ledge. Someone recommended also Lost Horizon off of the Kanc. (Rock Garden 5.4) Are there any top rope climbs at either Whitehorse or Cathedral that come to mind? up to a 10 would be OK. (On our next lesson I want to give Reverse Camber a try- under the instructor's watchful eye though....) Thanks for your time Charlie
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cklein
Oct 27, 2004, 2:05 PM
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Reverse camber has fun moves with awesome exposure.
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eray01
Nov 25, 2004, 6:30 PM
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It's been a while since i've been up there, but I recall rappelling to set up this top rope. I could be wrong.
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