Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Technique is more important than strength??

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Technique is more important than strength??

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pianomahnn

Aug 26, 2001, 8:46 AM
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Registered: Feb 16, 2001
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Congo just stated this in the bouldering forum, and I'm at somewhat of a disagreement with this.

My girlfriend has been climbing for 5 years, and is a solid 5.11 climber. She's gotten there merely on technique alone, but can't seem to get past it. She's developed all the technique she possibly can, and has come to the conclusion that to increase her performance she needs to increase her strength.

So, how important is strength, and how important is technique?

When I first started climbing, and still to this day, strength is what keeps me going. I've developed my technique A LOT since I began, but still feel my strength is what really pulls me through. For instance, I don't think no matter how awesome one's technique is, that it would help a huge deal when pulling on a mono. Either you have the strength to do it, or you don't.

Please...lets debate.

iclimb512s

Aug 26, 2001, 9:32 AM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2001
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technique and stength need to be balanced. you have to have both, techniwue and strength. without one, ur just stuck like ur girlfriend. tell her to get a hangboard

patman

Aug 26, 2001, 10:16 AM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2001
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you need to have good tenque but if u dont have strenght its tough

wandt

Aug 26, 2001, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2000
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The mix is vital, but when it comes down to it technique will seperate the men from the boys. (Even if the boys do one arm pull-ups.) Part of technique, of course, is the ability to quickly analyze a move, sequence or hold and then use it correctly. Up to low 5.12 I'd say you can get by with being exceptionally strong with a little technique. To progress further one must be good at both.

And, of course, there are so many difference facets of strength to factor in; grip, body tension, big move power, being able to simply haul yourself up by your arms, etc. etc. etc.

compclimber

Aug 26, 2001, 3:53 PM
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Registered: Jun 22, 2001
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If she has outstanding footwork then build up the strength, but do some thing like "systems training" that still involves body movement not just an ability to pull really hard.