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Black is Brown routefinding
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phile


Oct 29, 2004, 4:46 PM
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Registered: Aug 4, 2004
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Black is Brown routefinding  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park: Yosemite_Valley: Church_Bowl)
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10' off the ground there's a huge ledge. To continue up from this ledge there are 2 cracks--which is the route? I tried to go to the left and got shut down; I retreated without trying the one to the right. Was I on the route? If so, that's a stout 5.8.

phil


jklinke


Oct 29, 2004, 4:59 PM
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Re: Black is Brown routefinding [In reply to]
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I thought the right crack after the ledge was about 5.8, but higher up route finding wasn't so obvious. After the step right we followed the righslanting crack on the left. That turned out to be more like 10-. On rappel I saw a seam further right with good holds which seemed to be more like 5.8. SuperTopo only shows one of the two, I believe the Reid guide is more accurate.


phile


Oct 31, 2004, 7:31 PM
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Re: Black is Brown routefinding [In reply to]
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Ah, interesting. Thanks!

phil


FloydHayes


Jun 5, 2008, 3:21 PM
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Re: [phile] Black is Brown routefinding [In reply to]
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I thought the left-hand crack felt much harder than 5.8. I used a large cam (Camalot #4) to protect the lieback crux move and my son and I both thought it was at least 5.10a, compared with other 5.10s we recently climbed in the valley. A third companion was unable to do it but instead climbed the lower angle crack a few feet to the right, which she said was much easier--and presumably the 5.8 version (I don't know how well it protects). Higher up after the big step to the right there appeared to be several options; what seemed easiest to me was a mixture of 5.8 face and crack climbing out to the far right and returning left to the main crack near the top. Use long slings to avoid rope drag (or the optional belay below the "big step right") and beware of some loose flakes that likely would not hold a fall.


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