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Grand Teton
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tplg00


Nov 9, 2004, 11:09 AM
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Registered: May 3, 2004
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Grand Teton
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I am looking for a good route up the Grand, I have researched and am interested in the Petzoldt ridge, Exum Ridge and the Owen Spalding routes. The Petzoldt ridge sounds full-on but not much is written about it. The other two also sound great but they also sound busy with many climbers on any given day. How tough is the Petzoldt and would you recommend it over the other two routes? Is traffic really a problem in the midsummer months?


mbg


Nov 9, 2004, 11:27 AM
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Re: Grand Teton [In reply to]
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It depends on how much mountaineering experience you have. . .

If you're just breaking into the alpine rock realm I recommend the Upper Exum. The OS is alright but the climbing isn't all that fun IMO. For just being 5.5 the Upper Exum is a spectacular, exposed alpine adventure. I've not done the Petzoldt but it is long route and much more serious than the OS or Exum. I did the Exum on an August weekend a few years back and the crowds wern't too bad, the only place things got a little backed up was at the rap station.


agrauch


Nov 9, 2004, 11:53 AM
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Re: Grand Teton [In reply to]
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All three of those routes are excellent. All three can be a zoo during the summer months. More than likely you will be waiting in line.

Of the three, I like the Petzoldt the best. You can combine it with the Upper Exum for an great day on the Grand. The Petzoldt is harder than both the OS and the Upper Exum, but not quite as hard as the Direct Exum.

There is plenty of info about all three routes in Jackson and Ortenberger's Teton guide. There's even a topo for the Petzoldt.


jumar


Nov 9, 2004, 5:54 PM
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Re: Grand Teton [In reply to]
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Upper Exum there always seems to be a jam at Wallstreet in the summer. You'll likely want to get a very early start to try to get there before the crowds. OS you'll likely run into similar problems at the Crawl. Then on the descent the two raps can get backed up.

I agree OS isn't nearly as fun as Exum, except the crawl is fun. It traverses above the top of the Black Ice Coulier, then goes up a chimney. It starts near the base of the 2nd rap from the top. So if you had enough time, maybe you could go up Exum, down the raps, up the crawl route an back down the 2nd rap. LOL

If you have to choose between OS and Exum, go Exum.

I haven't done Petzoldt Ridge.


iceisnice


Nov 19, 2004, 6:30 AM
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petzoldt is by far the best of the three. pretty laidback, fun climb. if you wanna get out of the crowds and still have a great climb, the north ridge is pretty sweet. its just as hard as the petzoldt (ratings wise) but is more sustained. the other people here are right.....the exum and os can become pretty ridiculous, esp. on the weekends. petzoldt is a lot better, but the weekends can suck. regardless though, the tetons are an amazing experience, even if you have to shar it with so many others. any of those routes will be a memorable experience. enjoy!


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