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Tree ledge acess at Stone Mountain
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rpiontek


Nov 10, 2004, 10:26 AM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2004
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Tree ledge acess at Stone Mountain  (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Central: Stone_Mountain_State_Park)
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I'm a relatively new leader and would like to do the Great Arch at Stone, but the acess to the tree ledge has been keeping me from it. I'm aware of the standard routes to get there, u Slot, block route, entrance crack, dirty crack. What's the best protected? Suggestions? I'm aware of the runout nature of Stone, and I'm not ready for most of those routes, but the Great Arch looks sweet and I think I'm up to it. What about rapping from the top to the ledge, is that a reasonable option?


fixednut


Nov 10, 2004, 10:32 AM
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Re: Tree ledge acess at Stone Mountain [In reply to]
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With a bit of finagling (and definitely a few tri-cams), U-slot is relatively well protected and pretty fun. It is also quite easy...just don't fall above the (um?) roof.


emilb


Nov 10, 2004, 10:45 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2004
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Re: Tree ledge acess at Stone Mountain [In reply to]
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Dirty crack is probably the best protected. It's quite a bit harder than the others you mentioned though.


cordata


Nov 10, 2004, 11:12 AM
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Re: Tree ledge acess at Stone Mountain [In reply to]
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Entrance crack is very easy -- if you happen to have a #5 Camalot it's about the right size to protect the upper portion. I believe the "R" rating is only if you do not have wide gear. There is also a placement for a small TCU about midway up the offwidth.

However, rather than running out to buy big pieces if you don't already have them the other routes suggested might be better.

Once you've led No Alternative you should be more than ready for Entrance Crack.

Dave


forkliftdaddy


Nov 10, 2004, 11:34 AM
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Re: Tree ledge acess at Stone Mountain [In reply to]
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it is very possible to rap in from the top of the cliff. this will require a couple of double rope raps, however. folks do this frequently on wet days; the routes off the tree ledge dry faster than those below it.


offroute


Nov 10, 2004, 12:36 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
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Re: Tree ledge acess at Stone Mountain [In reply to]
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I personally like Block Route for quick access to the tree ledge. The block move is the only reason why it has a 5.8 rating and it is super well protected (you can put several pieces under the block if you are gun shy). The rest of the pitch is very casual with a set of rings and a couple cracks for pro.

Also, when you rap from the top of the G.A.... be careful with your rope length to the intermediate rings. We came up short last weekend on it just because the knot was on the wrong side of the rings, making the slightly shorter rope, uncomfortably short.


cjstudent


Nov 10, 2004, 1:28 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2003
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Re: Tree ledge acess at Stone Mountain [In reply to]
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I second the votes for U-Slot or Block Route.


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