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Wichita Mountain Beta
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reggrocket


Nov 18, 2004, 5:26 AM
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Wichita Mountain Beta
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I was just thinking about how awesome a place the wichitas are, and how unique they are for being the only place of its kind in such a large area. I'm dreaming about climbing there this winter break, and i just kinda wanted my daydreaming to expand into a thread. I was hopeing that people could endulge in my desire to climb by talking about this area. Well to get the ball rolling: Where are good places to climb when it is winter in the wichitas, does it get cold? Are there any good multipitch climbs, any walls high than 150ft. I know there is one in the narrows. When entering the narrows from the north it is the first wall on the east side. I did two pitch climb there that would probably go for 8, but i'm pretty sure no one else it stupid enough to climb through that poison ivy. Does anybody know the wall I'm talking about? Well i should get back to studying, just another month before I'm back in texas. Oh what a joy it is to have to drive 2 hours to get to some decent climbing. If anybody knows of some nice trad climbs in the 10 range or mabey easy 11s share, please.


leinosaur


Nov 18, 2004, 7:03 AM
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Re: Wichita Mountain Beta [In reply to]
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Where are good places to climb when it is winter in the wichitas, does it get cold?

Sunshine Wall and
Wintergarden Wall leap to mind
I believe each was named with your question in mind

Here's Wintergarden in the RDB, though I think they meant "cairn" rather than "carrion," in the approach directions. With all the turkey vultures, carrion's a poor choice of trail-marker!

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n.php?SectionID=5860

it can get real cold but it rarely stays that way long

I've read exactly ONE tale of Okie ice climbing!


leinosaur


Nov 18, 2004, 3:21 PM
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el bumpo


berkly


Nov 18, 2004, 3:39 PM
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Any south facing walls if the sun is shining and it is 45 degrees or warmer is pleasant for OK winter climbing. Below that, your fingers will get a little numb.

Quartz mountain, about 1 hour north of the refuge is ideal for winter time climbing, all south facing, its fair share of multipitch climbs, and many in the range you are looking for, albeit runout sometimes.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Area.php?AreaID=1441

I think the wall you are talking about inthe narrows is the Lichen wall. tallest formation in the refuge, topout is around 250 ft, with a sweet three pitch climb, I think league of doom (2) combined with space balls to the top. Both rated in the .11s on this site.http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n.php?SectionID=5672

Buy the Oklahoma Select guidebook for more beta.


cchildre


Nov 18, 2004, 4:52 PM
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League of Doom on the Lichen wall is suppose to be a killer climb. Nice cracks all around. I have never been to the Wichita's in the winter but there is always a shiney place to go climb. The crab eyes area is super cool and if you want killer offwidths spend some time over there. If the wind is going to kick up you might avoid it as it can be more exposed. I love that area. Meadows is cool too but the cool hard routes over there are sport. I have been on Creek Show a few times and it is short and nice the two 11's look nasty but good and long. Middle Mt. Scott is another cool spot, I have not been on the routes there but the guide book has me drooling. There is a new guidebook out, you might want to pick one up. Some old stuff has been omitted from the new edition I might add. Would offer to join you but Potreo is calling :)


redtail


Nov 18, 2004, 5:25 PM
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Quartz Mountain is THE place to go in the winter. If the sun is out the temp on the rock is great! Actually, Quartz is an hour WEST of the refuge, not north. It's north of Altus OK. If you're set on going to the refuge, the south side of Elk Mountain (Elk Slabs) are good in the winter. There are multipitch routes but be prepared for runout friction. When are you headed there? I'm going to Quartz most likely the first week of january, weather permitting. PM me if you want.


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