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red rocks question

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yevquest


Nov 22, 2004, 10:38 AM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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red rocks question  (North_America: United_States: Nevada: Red_Rock_Canyon: Calico_Basin)
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I'm going to be out there in december and have a question. The plan was to head to Sunny and Steep but I wanted to do Atman on the way. I've been to Calico Basin once before but parked at the Red Springs pulloff and climbed near there. If I use the directions listed in the route db, is it pretty easy to find S&S and Yin Yang? Also, is it possible to clean Atman on rappel? I understand that it's pretty short, how big a rack do I need to drag in? Oh yeah, Is yin and yang sunny or shady?

Thanks!


madmax


Nov 22, 2004, 10:44 AM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2003
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Re: red rocks question [In reply to]
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Atman is not worth doing. It's so short that it's done before you begin. But if you insist on doing it, four cams will do the trick (plus a couple for the belay); and no, you can't clean it on rappel. Better to just skip that area and go straight to S&S with a bunch of draws.


paulc


Nov 22, 2004, 11:19 AM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2001
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Re: red rocks question [In reply to]
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Was just there last week. Atman is easy to find. It faces S on the Y+Y boulder and is on the SE corner of the crag. book is right on, approach from the uphill side of the rock. I did Atman and while it is short it is a beautiful crack. I heard Y+Y is pretty soft for 11a. Looks good too, we ran out of light. Sunny and Steep is pretty easy to find. I would stay W of the boulders just before the drainage to walk down there, or you can do some short scrambling if you are E of the easy gully approach. Winter heat wall has a few good gear routes, but no sun.

I didn't get to it but the 12a looked good and the 11s are fun. Apparenttly the 11d is harder than the 12a.

Be safe.

Paul


sbclimber


Nov 22, 2004, 11:26 AM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2003
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Re: red rocks question [In reply to]
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Cannabis Crag is awesome


high


Nov 22, 2004, 7:05 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2001
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Re: red rocks question [In reply to]
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if you are looking for a full value top quality crack climb at red rocks, then get yourself on "the fox". bring everything and eat your wheaties.


yevquest


Nov 23, 2004, 7:24 AM
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Re: red rocks question [In reply to]
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Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll skip Y&Y and just head to sunny and steep.

Cheers


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