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Niagara Glen
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katanaman


Nov 22, 2004, 11:23 AM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2004
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Niagara Glen  (North_America: United_States: Wyoming: Western_Wy_: Upper_Bridge_Bands: Hideout_Wall)
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A few of my friends and I are hitting up ontario round the glen area for some climbing in april/may, just looking for ANY info or ref to sites about that area, camping, lodging, best areas, style of climbing, rock, best times to climb, weather, WHATEVER. just drop me a pm, cause we're kinda trying to organize some info now so we can plan what we're doing first, ive allready checked out the niagara glen site and it was cool, just looking for some local experience input


usmc_2tothetop


Nov 22, 2004, 11:36 AM
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Re: Niagara Glen [In reply to]
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I have climbed there before. It's pretty nice. There are alot of problems there. A good number of them have bad landings, so don't be shy on pads. It's all limestone and some of it can kind seem kind of greasy. I don't think you can camp anywhere there. Don't bother bringing any rope, I don't think it's allowed there. My one friend Greg (grinspoon) goes there alot and knows the place pretty well. PM him with questions if you want he has good info.


armsrforclimbing


Nov 22, 2004, 11:37 AM
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Re: Niagara Glen [In reply to]
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I dont know of anycamping in the area, but there are plenty of hotels in the Falls area. Also there are some sport/trad crags further north along the escarpment. One in particular, rattlesnake point, has campsites that are available at a fee and only under reservation. The cliffs are short 60-120 feet or so. The bouldering in the glen is definetely where you should spend most of you time. There is a site that has a better topo for the glen. I cant think of it now, PM me and I will get it to you. The niagara climbing center is the local gym in the states (www.niagaraclimbingcenter.com) Good for bouldering only.


echa92


Nov 22, 2004, 11:53 AM
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Re: Niagara Glen [In reply to]
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I go there a lot. The rock is limestone, so the holds are generally really small (sloper alot) or large jugs. Everytime i go there, i just climb what looks good. I haven't been able to find much when it comes to guide, but there are so many climbs there that it doesn't matter much. boulders are about 20 feet apart so theres alot. look for the chalk lines and your pretty much set. plus theres a trail which goes by the best boulders (made by climbers most likely.) not sure about camping. best during hotter months (rain and moisture make some of the holds really slippery.)


granite_grrl


Nov 22, 2004, 12:09 PM
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Re: Niagara Glen [In reply to]
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this topo's pretty cool:

http://www.halcyonclimbing.com/site/archives/000462.php

Many of the problems at the glen have a ton of variations and eleminate versions (I find it annoying, you think you've done a problem and someone tells you it actually starts a few holds down the wall), so it may be hard to figure out if you've actually done problem X. But if you focus on just enjoying the rock you'll have fun.

Spring can get pretty wet from what I hear, but I haven't had the chance to experiance it first hand yet. I do know that after a rain it can be kinda yucky.


hoppinbig


Nov 22, 2004, 12:34 PM
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Re: Niagara Glen [In reply to]
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All the info you need - and topo's can be found at: http://www.glenbouldering.com/

Enjoy


binton


Nov 22, 2004, 12:35 PM
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Re: Niagara Glen [In reply to]
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Everything that you need is at glenbouldering.com
topo's, etc...
The Glen is a good place, but is not a destination. That being said, you can have a great time there on numerous boulders. Check out Land of Oz for some great overhanging stuff, and for an entire different style of climbing go to the water where the rock is completely different. Bizzaro land has lots of crimpy testpieces , and the central area has some moderate classics and warmups.

Have fun,

dan


katanaman


Nov 22, 2004, 3:39 PM
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Re: Niagara Glen [In reply to]
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wicked, ya we're really gonna concentrate on bouldering, im super stoked! Frig there looks to be sooooooooooooo many boulders, its unreal, im used to like a 15 min hike between decent climbs of like 3 routes on a fairly good size rock. Its gonna be wicked, any topos or whatev just pm me with em, thanx for the beta, and if any one is gonna be there round aprily mayish let us know, we'll be partyin climbing for at least a week or so, in between site seein stuff :D


lemurboy


Nov 27, 2004, 5:59 AM
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Re: Niagara Glen [In reply to]
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Well have fun!

The glen is one of my favorite areas. Be sure to check out some of the steep sandstone routes near the river!

Cheers


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