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climbingbums
Nov 26, 2004, 7:35 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2003
Posts: 117
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Im a prescott az native. been climbing here since i started, like 3 years? anyway, one of my local crags, thumb butte, has a unique set of ethics. Bolts on some climbs, such as "the best face climbs in prescott" have been chopped, and bolting is strictly forbidden. but when i first started climbing, i saw a cam stuck low in the climb mecca, a classic 5.9 crack. i was not a confident trad leader at the time, so i tried to boulder up to obtain the wild country friend. i was unable, and went home in dissapointment. we then drove down the street, and i went to a local guides house to visit. he is a friend of my climbing partner. we told him about the cam, and he asked if there was cement on it. i laughed and asked if he was going to get it. he told me that instead of bolting, people fix gear by cementing in cams, nuts and pins. i may not be a smart man, but i know what bad ethics are. i told some people i met in my summer in the valley about this, and they got a real hoot about this. i guess cement is considered natural pro. also, this is not difinitive info, i haven't been up ther since because of injury and a hell of an approach, but i think a prescott climbing guide is good enough of a source for me to post.
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maculated
Nov 26, 2004, 7:44 PM
Post #2 of 5
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
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Your friend was pulling your leg.
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Dirteedave
Dec 22, 2011, 1:27 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2011
Posts: 3
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I agree I've been climbing here off and on since about 2002, that cam has been stuck there since I've been climbing there I suppose it could have been glued in but I have never seen any on it when I've been there. It (the cam) seemed to be common knowledge when I started climbing here. I believe that it's probably really stuck not glued, I've been wrong before though.
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agdavis
Dec 22, 2011, 1:41 AM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2009
Posts: 310
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zombie thread? zombie thread.
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Dirteedave
Dec 22, 2011, 2:36 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2011
Posts: 3
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Oh ha yeah didn't see the dates!!!
(This post was edited by Dirteedave on Dec 22, 2011, 3:52 AM)
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