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kansasclimber
Nov 29, 2004, 7:07 PM
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How many sizes down (im assuming) do you like to wear from your street shoe. What is typically said about how many sizes down you should wear. I just got a pair of 11.5's and i wear 13.5, i believe i could go down a half to a size more. What is comfortable to you. Where's the balance between comfort and precision?
(I do also realize what brand you prefer make a huge differecnce.)
Stephen
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overlord
Nov 29, 2004, 7:12 PM
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comfort and precision dont exclode eachother. strength on the big toe and comfort kinda do. but you shouldnt really have really painfull shoes because you wont feel a thing and your precision will go to hell.
apart from that, i like my shoues tight. not really painfull, but if i can comfortably wear them for 30+ mins theyre probably too big. as for specific sizes, my shoes wary for about 3 sizes +/- (different makers and even different models from the same maker seem to wary). its kinda 1/2 size up to 2 sizes down.
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graniteplanet
Nov 29, 2004, 7:16 PM
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I typically wear an eleven street shoe, like you acknowledged depending on the brand my climbing shoe size is all over the map. I wear a nine-and-a-half in my anasazis (going down another half-size if I decide to pick up another pair) and a 39.5 (seven and-a-half) in my Katanas
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jammer
Nov 29, 2004, 7:22 PM
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It all depends on the climbing shoe manufacture. As for the line between precision and comfort ... I like them tight enough for the shoe not to move and loose enough to have continued circulation. :wink:
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katanaman
Nov 29, 2004, 7:33 PM
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i have size 7ish in katanas and i wear size 10 in street normally, just something diff tho after wearing tiny size rock shoes i think my feet are like scrunching up because almost all shoe brands now i take around 9...meh
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kansasclimber
Nov 29, 2004, 7:47 PM
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Also are you suppose to be able to move your toes whatsoever??
Stephen
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chills
Nov 29, 2004, 7:55 PM
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It really depends on your foot and the shoe. The last pair of shoes I bought (La Sportiva Mythos) are all leather and so they will typically stretch 1/2 size at least. I went down 3 sizes from my street shoes which crushed my toes for the first 4 or 6 weeks but now they have mellowed nicely. Your best bet is to ask a knowledgeable sales person about the stretch factor or check out the the shoe reviews on this site.
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smeargle
Nov 29, 2004, 8:00 PM
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It definitely depends on brand, for my La Sportiva Miura's I sized them down two full sizes, but for 5.10 I only sized down one full size.
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symbiosissol
Nov 29, 2004, 8:05 PM
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In reguards to your question about toe movement....I think the amount of extra space will vary depending on what you will be doing in your shoes. My bouldering shoes are about a size and a half smaller then my trad shoes since I tend to take my bouldering shoes off more often. I like my bouldering shoes (Bufo V-Machines and La Sportiva Miuras) very small with my toes curled against the edge. This way there is about zero foot movement inside the shoe and I am able to feel a lot more detail on the wall/rock. I guess whatever you read here, the very best thing you can do (if you are able to) is go to a retailer or a gym where you can try on several shoes in several sizes and see what works for you best.
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angelaa
Nov 29, 2004, 10:18 PM
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I have never been able to find consistancy!
I wear 9.5 womens 8.5 mens - but my Anasazi's are 10.5???
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mendou
Nov 29, 2004, 10:27 PM
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In reply to: It all depends on the climbing shoe manufacture.
In reply to: It definitely depends on brand...
Ditto that.
in my case, almost is 2 number down comparing with the street shoes, but some brands that have the same number are different size.
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climboard
Nov 29, 2004, 10:39 PM
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Trad shoes- one size down.
Bouldering/sport- 1.5 sizes down.
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coldclimb
Nov 29, 2004, 11:27 PM
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coldclimb moved this thread from General to Gear Heads.
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climbsomething
Nov 29, 2004, 11:34 PM
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In short, my climbing shoe sizes are similar to my street shoe sizes. But then, I am a size 3 or 4 street shoe anyway.
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napoleon_in_rags
Nov 29, 2004, 11:50 PM
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I drop down only a size and a half but I climb mostly Trad. The shoe material really factors into this. I bought a pair of MadRock Hooker Lace a year ago two sizes too small - They didn't stretch at all because they are made mostly of rubber.
I think the comfort level depends on what style of climbing. A multipitch climb in painful shoes sux.
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outdoorclimber
Nov 30, 2004, 12:32 AM
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I wear my La Sportivas 2-3.5 sizes too small. It sucks for about a week, but once the shoes are broken in I find that I get much more edging power than I normally would.
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korntera
Nov 30, 2004, 1:17 AM
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I wear an 11.5-12 in street shoes and i have a pair of sportiva cliffs that are 10.5 and could be .5 to 1 size smaller, but i love that i can wear them all day long and not have my feet hurt, plus i am somewhat of a beginner so i don't need something super tight and super performance minded, i only boulder v1 and climb 5.10a at best.
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