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skibabeage
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Dec 10, 2004, 4:36 AM
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laclimberchick
Dec 10, 2004, 7:08 AM
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Cicada is my hero!
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gumbobob
Dec 10, 2004, 8:04 PM
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[quote="skibabeage"]
There’s a pattern here. V5 at 7. V7 at 8. V10 at 10. With this accelerated progress, she’ll be climbing V12 at age 11. To date, that’s the toughest grade any woman, any age has sent.
josune? lisa rands?
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old_apple_juice
Dec 10, 2004, 8:20 PM
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I wanted to name my next child a nature name but my wife says, "No"
Look at this, Cicada = crazy, amazing climber.
If only I could give birth then I'd have the upper hand.
Ummmm...on second thought...maybe not. Keep it up Cicada, I'll live vicariously through your accomplishments. Maybe I'll stick my 2 year old in gymnastics too.
Andrew
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andrurok
Dec 11, 2004, 10:59 PM
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what kind of mutants are Cicada's PARENTS???!!!!
I want to know:
-who wears the pants (Cicada? Mom? Dad? none of the above?)
-when Cicada climbs sport routes, I guess she sets them up and everything? Does she CLEAN the route too?
somebody get me an exclusive interview DARN IT!
as if she is THAT good a climber without having a mutant for a parent...
kids are mutants, THAT'S the problem these days.
way to go Cicada.
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Dec 11, 2004, 11:20 PM
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I saw a video of Cicada doing the Monkey Bar Treverse on the old ClimbXMedia.com. Wow.
There's a Cicada the trains with the kids group every week at Mission Cliffs. Same one? I saw her working a V9 this week. Can't be too many 11 year old Cicadas in California that crank that hard.
She's certainly a phenomenon, but I gotta give props to all those kids. They train hard - 15 hours a week; and they crank hard - I see them regularly sending V4s and 5s. Then they go downstairs and hit the weights. It's inspiring.
Kudos also to the coach. He does a great job of keeping them motivated and making sure they're enjoying themselves.
I think they're all at an ABS comp today. Gook luck guys! Keep up the good work!
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mped
Dec 12, 2004, 5:13 AM
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my parents didn't let my climb as a child!! gah. Had I started back then I would be doing v24, inverted sheet glass decents blind-folded!
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roseraie
Dec 15, 2004, 2:35 AM
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I'm pretty sure Cicada's dad runs the show when it comes to her training. I've seen them, and the other girls on the team, in Ironworks heaps of times.
Cicada does these crazy training routines, like doing a 5.12+ up and down, pausing for 5 seconds with her hand over each next hold before she's allowed to grab it.
I tried to do that on a 5.10 and it spanked me.
Those girls are all incredible climbers, and a source of motivation. I can't tell how many times I've seen Cicada do a route that I'd deemed "height dependent" and given up on. Haha.
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bler
Dec 24, 2004, 2:53 AM
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Cicada Jenerik, sends v10 at age 10 !!!
I've seen this girl climb in a few local comps and WOW !!! she is definatley at the next level of womens climbing ! just mind boggling.. MAD props to her !
"Jenerik Boulders Her Age
By David Schmidt
On December 10 Cicada Jenerik sent Lowrider (V10), the extension to Cholos (V9), at the Happy Boulders in Bishop, California, becoming the first person to “boulder her age” — V10 at age 10. Jenerik, a San Francisco native, has been climbing rock for four years, and is a member of the Zero Gravity climbing team, which her father Scot coaches. As reported in Issue 234’s Hot Flashes, Jenerik also recently sent Captain Bullet (5.13a/b), at Maple Canyon, Utah, making her one of the most talented youth climbers to have emerged in recent years. In addition to sport climbing and bouldering, Jenerik is also an accomplished comp climber, taking podium honors in both the bouldering and difficulty events for the female 11-years-and-under category at the North American Continental Championships, held in Mexico City. Look for a detailed Hot Seat interview in Issue 237, or check out her scorecard on www.8a.nu."
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gearsighted
Dec 24, 2004, 3:05 AM
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:o That is just amazing!!! Congrats to her!! I'm sure she'll be pushing the standards before too long. :D
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pylonhead
Dec 24, 2004, 3:37 AM
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That's amazing.
Now I've just got to send that v34 problem I've been working on.
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benpullin
Dec 24, 2004, 4:11 AM
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Before I even read the first post I guessed "Lowrider."
I think it's everyone's first V10, not that I could touch it...
Good for her.
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eyecannon
Dec 24, 2004, 4:25 AM
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Cicada is probably the coolest name I've ever heard.
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gamehendge
Dec 24, 2004, 4:32 AM
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Do I get any props for sending a V3 @ 30? :wink: Congrats Cicada. Awesome.
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bouldering-bummm
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Dec 26, 2004, 5:43 AM
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Way to go Cicada!
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sharpie
Jan 27, 2005, 3:29 PM
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If only I weighed 70 lbs.....
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quietsin
Feb 10, 2005, 3:22 AM
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All indoor routes are usually set for height unless you're looking at an onsight competition. Outdoors you have intermediates, sometimes known as Katie Brown jugs. Girls like Cicada can get their fingers around things most of us would need a magnifying glass to find. There's a reason not many can follow in Lynn Hill's footsteps on the nose, one of them is definately athletic ability, but the other? I think one of her friends (John Long?) mentioned the possibility of free'ing it because she's got "small fingers."
Another case in point, I can't outclimb Natasha Barnes outside. She's flashed v9 and taken out six v10's (8a.nu), but indoors on occasion I can get close to her point total. I'm not as strong as she is, just got a bigger reach. Course setting matters... especially to a 4 footer. When Cicada grows up, she's going to be strong... if her parents teach her alternative techniques to climbing beyond what girls tend to do (slow moving, static crimp-to-crimp climbing) like jumping and slapping from hold to hold like Sharma, she's going to fly. Granted, Josune Bereziartu is an extremely slow point to point climber, and she's as strong as any guy (by the way, she works long hard traverses that some people have classified as v14) so maybe Cicada will blow everyone out of the water anyways.
My hopes go out to Ms. Jenerik, and I join the rest of the throng when I say I can't wait to see what she does next.
Taylor
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andrewbanandrew
Feb 21, 2005, 2:48 AM
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Kudos to her and her parents.
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wlderdude
Mar 5, 2005, 10:57 PM
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Wow.
I knew Cicada was a good climber and that she was winning some competitons at her local gym, but until last December, I had no idea how recogized or even how good she was.
Cicada is my cousin.
The recent issues of climbing magazine and Rock and Ice have featured her. Before I saw those, I really had no idea.
I don't really know her all that well. She did come to Houston for Christmas to visit last year.
In reply to: what kind of mutants are Cicada's PARENTS???!!!! I want to know: -who wears the pants (Cicada? Mom? Dad? none of the above?) -when Cicada climbs sport routes, I guess she sets them up and everything? Does she CLEAN the route too? somebody get me an exclusive interview DARN IT! as if she is THAT good a climber without having a mutant for a parent... kids are mutants, THAT'S the problem these days. way to go Cicada.
As for the mutant comments, I think think my aunt and uncle would get a good laugh about that.
Scotty took up climbing several years ago. He bought that book "How to Climb 5.12" determined to do so and let climbing take over his life. I guess it rubbed off on Cicada. She was a great gymnist, but you think rock gyms are expensive...
Her older brother has an even crazzier name, Zeov' (Pronounced Zee-of). I hope I spelled it right. They really like creative spelling. The last name Jeneric was chosen because my Uncle Scotty's last name was Smith, and that was to "generic" for them.
Her Mom, Maria, is very suportive of both of her childrens' interests. I don't know how much climbing she does.
They are a really cool family. If Cicada gets to be well known, someone could proabably write a great biography that anyone would enjoy reading and sell a lot of books.
Okay, that is hardly an exclusive interview and I am not going to comment on the "pants wearing" question (I really don't know), but hopefully it was some of what you were looking for.
Okay, one more tidbit: their dog's name is Pyro.
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cmacblue42
Apr 17, 2005, 1:17 AM
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she goes to the gym i boulder at once a week. i havent seen her yet and i still cant beleive she climbs V10 since she is shorter than my shoulder since i am 5' 2" and a girl since they are on the less muscular build. hopefully i will see her climb the V10 at our gym next week since my freind is gonna tell her to come 1 weekend.
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obe
Apr 30, 2005, 11:59 PM
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I hope she doesn't get burnt out of it like Katie Brown did. I know many young climbers who are simply incredible, but get burnt out on going to the gym 2-3 times a week and training.
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nich_popsicle
May 1, 2005, 12:30 AM
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Hey, can anyone else help me out here, I though that there was some mutant kid of 14 years old that ticked a v14. I believe it was a boy, so I would assume Cicada still would hold the title for women, but I could have sworn I read about this 14 year old boy sending a v14 somewhere and being the oldest person (boy OR girl) to boulder their age. Please, if anyone knows, help me out here, but I am like 93% certain I remember reading some little blurb in a magazine about it... I dunno, maybe the medication is making me halucinate again, but whatever... Either way, MEGA PROPS to cicada, truly an inspiration for the young and old alike :D :D :D
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ikefromla
May 1, 2005, 12:45 AM
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In reply to: Hey, can anyone else help me out here, I though that there was some mutant kid of 14 years old that ticked a v14. I believe it was a boy, so I would assume Cicada still would hold the title for women, but I could have sworn I read about this 14 year old boy sending a v14 somewhere and being the oldest person (boy OR girl) to boulder their age. |
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ikefromla
May 1, 2005, 12:50 AM
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In reply to: Before I even read the first post I guessed "Lowrider." I think it's everyone's first V10, not that I could touch it...
Truth be told, most people who have done the problem, or tried it.. and climb the grade consider it to be an "entry level problem." or "soft." Hence why so many people do it as their first... it is good for that. I won't take anything away from Cicada.. she is rad, and I'm sure she'll send other V10s soon.
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crazyclimbergirl
Dec 12, 2005, 6:19 PM
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I give her props on doing a V10, however her attitude toward girls at comps is not wort praising. I'm so proud of one of girls, Sarah, beat her at the comp last week at city beach! Cicada is deifantely way better at toproping. I'm not trying to be negative I just think she needs an attitude check.
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