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crzdriver
Dec 13, 2004, 2:52 AM
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Me and some friend would love to go Canada to climb ice this spring. I, being from AR, don't even know the capitol of our good neighbors to the north. Such as that is, I was wondering if anyone had good beta on written guides, best time of year, and where to go. Ontario is a straight shot north of my location, so much deviance will put me on the road for days and days and... We are planning on spending four to five days climbing. Thanks for any info.
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rendog
Dec 13, 2004, 4:59 AM
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In reply to: . I, being from AR, don't even know the capitol of our good neighbors to the north.
Ottawa dude it's fu*king O T T A W A sheesh
forget ontario man, sure there's good ice from what I've been told, but if you have any time at all then go the the canadian rockies banff area.
more Ice climbs in a given area than anywhere else in the world. gobs and gobs of WI3 right up to WI8 (the first in the world to be exact)
foget Ontario (whose capitol is T O RO N T O) spend the etra day driving for the rockies. 800m grade WI3+/4 called This House of Sky. or a 3 pitch grade 6+ called the Terminator the trophy for banff area and who could forget Polar Circus with over 700m on ice climbing going at a reasonable grade of WI5. Nope the rockies is where it's at.
and that's all i got to say on that
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ontario_guide
Dec 13, 2004, 5:04 AM
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Depending on how much time you have you could check out the Orient Bay area near Thunder Bay. (It's on the North-West shore of Lake Superior) Otherwise, there is some great ice climbing in the 'daks in New York. (the capital of which is ALbany by the way, in the United States, capital Washington D.C. Don't worry. At leat you know that Canada is north of you! :D
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ontario_guide
Dec 13, 2004, 5:07 AM
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In reply to: foget Ontario (whose capitol is T O RO N T O) spend the etra day driving for the rockies. 800m grade WI3+/4 called This House of Sky. or a 3 pitch grade 6+ called the Terminator the trophy for banff area and who could forget Polar Circus with over 700m on ice climbing going at a reasonable grade of WI5. Nope the rockies is where it's at. and that's all i got to say on that
Fair enought. Banff is much superior but it is a full 24 hour day west. That's a LONG way from AR! Mind you so is Ontario but who's counting! Quebec has some great areas as well.
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crzdriver
Dec 13, 2004, 7:21 AM
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Thanks for all the info (capitols included). I looked at some pics of Banff... I'll go there. What's the primo season? Suggested guidebooks?
I'm going to make even more of an ass of AR's reputation, but here goes. My brother-in-law has a legal history and will need permission to leave the state, let alone the country for this trip. What do I need to get across the border for a week? Oh, and can you carry a weapon across the border? I usually carry one for those 3 AM piss stops when the scary looking people in the old Lincolon move from the end of the lot and park right next to you.
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zoob
Dec 13, 2004, 8:07 AM
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Hey buddy, I am a US citizen who has lived and worked in Western Canada for a few years now... It behooves my country men to get out and see Canada and educate your self... You have taken the first step, congrats.
As with most of the other quotes, the West is really the way to go. Banff, Lake Louise, BC - Alberta Boarder (HAffner Creek).. The guide book to get is called "Waterfall Ice, a guide to the Canadian Rockies Ice Climbs" Or something like that. It is writen by Joe Josephson...One of the best guide books that I have ever seen.
If you dont want to venture out west, look into the ice in Quebec! I am even hoping to get out there oneday and it is not far off of Ontario. I cant help you with locations her though.
Drop me a PM if you want some more info... and now you know that Ottawa is the Canadian Capital, a nice place as well.
Cheers my friend.
:D
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zoob
Dec 13, 2004, 8:09 AM
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:D Hey buddy, I am a US citizen who has lived and worked in Western Canada for a few years now... It behooves my country men to get out and see Canada and educate your self... You have taken the first step, congrats.
As with most of the other quotes, the West is really the way to go. Banff, Lake Louise, BC - Alberta Boarder (HAffner Creek).. The guide book to get is called "Waterfall Ice, a guide to the Canadian Rockies Ice Climbs" Or something like that. It is writen by Joe Josephson...One of the best guide books that I have ever seen.
If you dont want to venture out west, look into the ice in Quebec! I am even hoping to get out there oneday and it is not far off of Ontario. I cant help you with locations her though.
Drop me a PM if you want some more info... and now you know that Ottawa is the Canadian Capital, a nice place as well.
Cheers my friend.
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zoob
Dec 13, 2004, 8:16 AM
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Hey I just read the rest of your request...DONT BRING A WEAPON!!!!!!!!
Not worth the hassle...pocket knife is fine though...
As for the leagal thing, you family member should persue a pardon/waiver that states that he has been cleared or has paid the penalty..... DUI are really bad....
It get really sticky with a record. Best bet is to call Canadaian immigration and describe the nature of your trip and your record.. they should be helpful. Also go with the truth!!! If you are travelling without all the documentation it really comes down to the Boarder agent and their frame of mind at that point in time....
Safest way is leave ol cuz at home! Rough, but it is the truth.
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rendog
Dec 13, 2004, 2:21 PM
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In reply to: Hey I just read the rest of your request...DONT BRING A WEAPON!!!!!!!! Not worth the hassle...pocket knife is fine though...
damn straight, not only will you denied acces on this trip, but you will not be allowed in for a looooong time afterwards
As for the leagal thing, you family member should persue a pardon/waiver that states that he has been cleared or has paid the penalty..... DUI are really bad....
In reply to: Safest way is leave ol cuz at home! Rough, but it is the truth.
that's the truth. if the bro in law needs to get permission to leave the state, I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say that he will not be allowed into Canada. The border patrol interrofated me on my way through last week about something i did before I was 18 (still a minor so the records are sealed. *note to self, don't bring up Juvie stuff*),
yes the guide is http://www.rmbooks.com/...ookimages/joswat.jpg and it is very comprehensive. you can always borrow the mixed guide from the library, unless of course Scallywag hasn't brought it back yet :P
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mtnbkrxtrordnair
Dec 13, 2004, 6:52 PM
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This is just a guess, but being from AR how experienced are you on ice? And these guys want to put you on the Terminator. The Canadian Rockies undoubtedly have some awsome ice, but are you ready for 800m of 6+?
For a more modest objective, deviate slightly right on our way north and head to the Adirondacks. Anything from a short top rope to multi-pitch, reasonable approch, no immigration or weapons issues and you don't even have to learn how to speak Canadian.
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rendog
Dec 13, 2004, 10:40 PM
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In reply to: And these guys want to put you on the Terminator. The Canadian Rockies undoubtedly have some awsome ice, but are you ready for 800m of 6+?
Dude I never said that, I was just giving some examples of the diversity of the ice climbs in the rockies
ummm and Scallywag...Sean did put out the 2nd edition of the mixed guide, I think that book is for mixed technique...so ppbbbbbbbbbbbt right back at ya :)
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embers
Dec 13, 2004, 10:52 PM
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hi.
I am going over to whistler from England for new year and a couple of weeks after and was wondering if anyone knew of any easy access ice around there and the best guide books to try to get hold of for it.
i heard that there was some around Pemberton but i have no idea of where.
i hope someone can help.
cheers
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crzdriver
Dec 13, 2004, 10:54 PM
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In reply to: being from AR how experienced are you on ice
I've been doing it for a few years now. I just married a chick from Ft. Collins which has been my home away from home for the last two years. You may not believe it, but we actually get really good ice here for a very narrow window in the winter. No one around here climbs the stuff (well, I do), but the Buffalo River has some excellent 150-200' WI routes spread down the bluffs for miles at time during January and February.
Anyway, thanks for the info. I located the book from the publisher, and I'll be making arrangements shortly. If immigration gives me hell about Jeff, I'll just head to CO or NY and save Canadia for next year.
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rendog
Dec 13, 2004, 10:58 PM
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hey man if you do come up next year keep me in mind. I'll show you around the Bow Valley (Field, Lake Louise, Banff, and canmore) I'm in NS right now so it's a bit of a stretch for me to get out right now. :cry:
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scallywag
Dec 15, 2004, 2:42 PM
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In reply to: ummm and Scallywag...Sean did put out the 2nd edition of the mixed guide, I think that book is for mixed technique...so ppbbbbbbbbbbbt right back at ya :)
ahhh shoot!
personal note....never argue with ren - he's way to damn smart! :P
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fstep
Dec 15, 2004, 3:04 PM
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In reply to: I, being from AR, don't even know the capitol of our good neighbors to the north.
and ppl wonder where canadians get their stereotypes from...
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rendog
Dec 15, 2004, 5:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: ummm and Scallywag...Sean did put out the 2nd edition of the mixed guide, I think that book is for mixed technique...so ppbbbbbbbbbbbt right back at ya :) ahhh shoot! personal note....never argue with ren - he's way to damn smart! :P
damn straight Sal, don't ever forget it either :wink:
me thinks this is the book that you were looking forhttp://a1072.g.akamai.net/...hips/713350_9996.jpg
it's the updated version of sean's book
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kman
Dec 15, 2004, 6:16 PM
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In reply to: I am going over to whistler from England for new year
There's ice climbing on Whistler mountain itself. Need to pay for a 1 trip lift ticket though.
In reply to: personal note....never argue with ren - he's way to damn smart!
That's arguable. I mean c'mon....he's in NS right now. How smart is that....really though...how smart. I dunno, doesn't look to bright to me:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=38449
http://instagiber.net/...rib/blackeye/lol.gif
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ontario_guide
Dec 15, 2004, 6:23 PM
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You really do not need a gun. This is Canada! We don't shoot each other up here unless we happen to be married to them.
In terms of bringing your brother, cousin (forgot the relationship) across the border, you are probably going to have a hard time. I used to work with an immigration lawyer and I've heard all kinds of horror stories including juvie records, convictions from 20-30 years prior and even charges that were dropped being used to deny entry. The problem is that there really is no one system to keep track of your criminal record. As a result, it is almost impossible to "seal" your record. Sad but true.
Check out the 'dacks. You'll like it there.
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scallywag
Dec 16, 2004, 5:14 AM
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hee hee - yeah i remember this photo - he had it on as his profile when i first thought of connecting with Ren for some bouldering in NS - definitely made me think twice that is for sure!!! har har.
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ozarkclimber
Dec 16, 2004, 5:56 AM
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canadian ice... i have yet to venture to banff for climbing, but the scenery is awesome. looked like great climbing when i was there several years ago.
we went to orient bay last spring, and i was impressed. tons of climbing, grades from WI2 to WI6, and access is incredible. over 150 climbs up to 4 pitches, and all within a stone's throw from the car. i put some pics up in the route DB of a couple of the climbs. I have several more available if you're interested. if time is a factor, i'd shoot for orient bay. you pretty much eliminate the approach, you can camp close to the climbs, and it's all within a 20 mile stretch of road. you'd get a lot of bang for your buck here. i drove it in 16 hr from st louis if i remember right. another place we considered was agawa canyon. lots of cool looking longer climbs, and a train ride in for access. sounds pretty neat.
check out that stuff on http://www.northofsuperiorclimbing.com/index.lasso
or on www.climbingcentral.com
also, i would love to hear where those falls are in AR. ice is sparse up here in st. louis, and i've seen pictures of AR ice, talked to a few park rangers about them, but they didn't seem to be of much help. is there anyone to contact down there for ice conditions? it's a 5 hour drive from here, but sounds like good ice to me.
if you change your mind and shoot for orient bay, PM me and i'll try to help you out.
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sirjohn
Dec 24, 2004, 2:24 AM
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TRy coming north to the Lake Superior Region. See www.climbingcentral.com for guidebook info. Below are the conditions reports for this week in the area just north of Sault Ste. Marie.
We have lots of climbs over 100 meters high. Search "STRATOSPHERE" for the highest in the midwest at 775 feet. Ice is here in Agawa Canyon till mid April
Email me if you need further info: info@northofsuperiorclimbing.com
AGAWA CANYON: The trestle is pretty damm thin on the left side with the first piece of Pro at 140 feet. Right side has more ice.It did not matter at -25 F!! Skukum has the lower wall in good shape.Don's falls is fine to climb. The river is not frozen so dont cross anywhere. MILE 92: Sure the ice is forming but is not worth the trip as of yet. Comfortably Numb is good for the first pitch. Dont cross the BAY, it is not frozen yet! The main pillar on Steps to Rama has formed, and will offer a variation to the start this year. MILE 38:Keetes is climbable but thin. Dutch Treat is the only climb worth doing. CERRO DE HIELO: Stevie Aye John is in good shape and just enough ice for 17 cm screws. The ice up high on the Transverse Mercator Wall has formed an is climbable. No ice has touched down on the Wall of Shame, Sorrow, or Sinn.
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