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climbjs
Jun 7, 2002, 9:26 PM
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I am going to Tuolomne Meadows in July and wanted input on peoples favorite moderate (5.9 on down) (long) trad climbs. Thanks!
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dsafanda
Jun 7, 2002, 9:41 PM
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Cathedral Peak!
At 5.6 it's very easy but fricking fantastic!!
I work for SuperTopo so my opinion is 100% biased but I think you'd really love Chris Mac's Tuolumne guide. He's got great beta on the best Tuolumne moderates.
Description of the route here..
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tucasout
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climbjs
Jun 7, 2002, 9:45 PM
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Thanks David. I've actually purchased the SuperTopos, and found them very informative! Also, thanks for your suggestion on Cathedral Peak.
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dsafanda
Jun 7, 2002, 10:04 PM
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The fact that the FA was by John Muir makes it(Cathedral) extra special.
I haven't done it but if you're looking for something long...Tenya Peak looks cool don't you think? 13 pitches!
Don't forget about Fairview Dome. Sorry...I could go on and on.
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-06-07 15:32 ]
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a510poser
Jun 15, 2002, 11:08 PM
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Cathedral Peak for sure! I try to do it every year. Its for sure one of the most dramatic summits I've been on. Also check out West Crack On Daf Dome. Its got a .8 roof that's a real blast.
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apollodorus
Jun 15, 2002, 11:21 PM
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Cathedral is way cool. You'll love the crux: standing up straight at the very summit for the photo. If the wind is up, you will be even more challenged.
If you are up to a bit longer and harder route, the regular route on Fairview is also really good.
But remember this: Tuolumne is full of great climbs, many of them involving unreal feldspar crystals sticking out of the smooth granite faces.
Mt. Conness (I've never done it) is supposed to be as good as Cathedral, but just a bit harder.
And as long as you are in Tuolumne, the rock closest to the store is Lambert Dome. The big, obvious cracks that are on the face towards the store are the Water Cracks. I met a guy who claimed to have ridden a BMX bike down the Water Cracks, and rode it out to the bottom. Whoh-Yeah! This guy was a skier, not a climber.
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tim
Jun 15, 2002, 11:51 PM
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The hell with Cathedral, do the Regular Route on Fairview if you want just good ol' trad, and if you're there for a life-altering experience (eg. an alpine climb) do the Matthes Crest or 3rd Pillar of Dana. I think the 3rd Pillar may be a 10a or 10b -- best check your Secor book. The Matthes, on the other hand, is 5.6 and 3/4 of a mile long.
Lookit here:
That's the view from the summit...
If you're only going to do one climb in Tuolumne, I'd say, take your Camelbaks, take your lightest single rope, maybe a handful of nuts and a dozen slings, and DO IT. No one I know that has done it has ever regretted it. 4am leave the car, 6am get on the route, back to the car in time to get to the Mountain Room Bar.
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dustinap
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Jun 16, 2002, 1:04 AM
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Anything at Stately Pleasure Dome is good. Soutcrack is fun, and is like 8 pitches with the crux being either 5.8 or 5.9. Supertopo says 5.8, but I think the old book said 5.9. Anyways, it is enjoyable, not to hard. Be warned though, the second to last pitch I think it is has like 1 gear placement in the 40 some meters of it.
Truck and Drive on Lambert Dome is fun, it's a 2 pitch 5.9 with an easy approach. The bolts on the second pitch with face climbing are kind of far apart in comparison to most bolted routes but it is a great climb.
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betaflash
Jun 16, 2002, 1:29 AM
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Here's my two cents on T-routes in Yos...Cathedral Peak, Reg rte on Fairview, and 3rd Pillar of Dana are all must do moderates. I would like to add to that list, Out on a Lamb, on the Lamb Dome. It's a 5.9 pg 3 pitch traverse of Lamb Dome while over half way up the dome. It takes great gear on the traverse itself, and offers awesome exposure the whole way. You won't regret getting on this one.
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jmlangford
Jun 16, 2002, 1:43 AM
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Jab...I am doing the North ridge of Conness on the 7th-9th. When I get down, you gonna take me up Mathes Crest? Is it really only a two hour approach? BTW, Pm me with intsructions on how to insert pics into posts like you did, that is one cool photo!
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tim
Jun 16, 2002, 4:16 AM
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Matthes can be anywhere from a 1.5hr approach to a 4hr hell-hike. I suggest trying to start around 4 or 5 because it's just getting light-ish around then, you basically hike in like you're going to Cathedral (did the SE Butt, thought it was all hype, BUT the Eichorn Pinnacle looked like the SAUCE from up there!) except you branch off and go around the OTHER side of Budd Lake. Once you get up to the lake it's easy (just go up and over the pass -- 30 minutes tops) but it's possible to get real lost if you do the approach in the dark. We did, and we bloated that hump to about 3 hours. (d'oh!) But, it was totally worth it. Awesome ridge traverse.
I'll actually see if I can modify my travel plans -- if I can stay a few extra days (will be in CA from July 3rd - July 7th to climb in the Needles) I would be delighted to climb the Matthes with you. As for picture insertion, I'll send you a more detailed PM, but all I did was add
like I would do on a regular webpage.
--t
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-06-15 21:17 ]
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jmlangford
Jun 16, 2002, 4:26 AM
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Thanks jab...Don't change any plans to fit mine...my post-Conness plans are still up in the air. I was just thinking it would be a possibility if you were around. My family scheduling is complicated right now.
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jmlangford
Jun 16, 2002, 4:28 AM
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P.S. Last time I checked, Tuolomne Meadows was pretty close to the WEST COAST. How did this thread get into the East Coast forum?
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tim
Jun 16, 2002, 4:34 AM
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OK, I moved it to West Coast.
Hey also, dsafanda's post contains a link with lots of good information on Cathedral SE Butt. And there's a similar page for the Matthes! Check it out:
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=tumctrav
Good stuff, dsafanda. And you guys got the ratings right, except, that's a light ass 5.7 in my book Actually, looking at all the topos in that UltraClassics book, I'm thinking the poster should just go buy it. Those are an AWESOME collection of climbs!
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/tuclassics.html
It looks like the book only costs $9.95 and you can download the Fairview topo for free.
If I hadn't already done most of these climbs (and loved them!) I'd probably buy it myself.
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-06-15 21:45 ]
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krustyklimber
Jun 18, 2002, 7:57 AM
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Tenaya Peak!
It's close to the road (short approach), climbs pristene white granite and has one of the nicest summits I've ever been on!
Mattes Crest looked good from there and is my next objective in the high country!
Jeff
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