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arjunrattan
Dec 14, 2004, 10:26 PM
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hi,
i have climbed at TCA(just once) and at oasis(which is my current gym)..and was thinkin of joining one...? which one would you recomend? as im sure a lot of you have climbed at all of them..
cheers!
arjun
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kriso9tails
Dec 14, 2004, 10:35 PM
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I haven't been to TCA since I was probably about 14, so though I wasn't that fond of it back then (seven years ago) I can't really say all that much about it now since gyms tend to change over time.
I climb at Oasis because it's easier to get to for me, but were that not an issue I'd probably climb at Rockheads. I hate the belay set up at Oasis, and I find the routes somewhat awkward and at times down right ugly. I like the route setting better at Rockheads and I think they make much better use of their space.
There's also that gym in New Market (Of Rock and Chalk?). It's been a while since I've been there, but as I recall the gym itself is half-decent (not that big and nothing spectacular). I've gotten exceptionally good service there as well as exceptionally bad.
The only other gym I can think of off the top of my head is the Pad, which I've never been to. If you want to boulder I hear it's the place to go.
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meataxe
Dec 30, 2004, 12:39 AM
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In reply to: ...I find the routes somewhat awkward and at times down right ugly...
Ugly in a good sense. :)
I find there is the occasional route that is really hard without resorting to tiny crimpy holds. These are the "ugly" ones that I really like--they really demand a lot.
The complaint I have heard of Oasis is that a lot of the routes are reachy. I'm OK, but not so good for smaller folks.
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vertk8r
Dec 30, 2004, 2:11 AM
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True, Oasis has the occasional reachy climb (depends on who sets the routes). I don't mind it though. It keeps me thinking about different approaches to take on a route and often challenges my strength. Something else to consider is that Oasis is a really busy gym. Call and ask what times are least busy and go then if you can.
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jumpingrock
Dec 30, 2004, 2:47 AM
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In terms of reachyness climbs Rock Oasis isn't half as bad as the gym I used to climb @ in Edmonton. For me it's not an issue at all as I am 6'4" but for one of my partners 5'4" (who has also climbed at both) finds the routes at VIRG much reachier than anything found @ RO.
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static_endurance
Dec 30, 2004, 5:41 AM
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I've never been to rockheads, though i'm told it's awesome and huge. But i generally climb at the Rock Oasis at least once a week, if not more. The climbs do tend to be a bit reachy, and sometimes the ratings are a bit off, but it's awesome when you're just chilling between climbs, i find it to be a much less hostile environment than gravity over in hamilton, though gravity definately has its perks as well.
And as far as bouldering goes, the Pad is definately the place to go. They've built 3 boulders in the middle of the floor that you can boulder and top out on, and the routes are rated anywhere from V0 up. If you wanna just have a bouldering session, it's well worth it.
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kriso9tails
Jan 2, 2005, 5:37 AM
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Oasis less hostile than Gravity? That's the first time I've heard that, but now that I think of it I shouldn't be surprised. I used to live just across the bridge from Gravity and used to climb there three to four times a week, but I do remember whining about it's atmosphere being lost by the time I left.
I've been finding all gyms a little cold and indifferent lately and have been getting mixed service from employees, but I assume it has more to do with me than with the staff and patrons.
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oberisk
Jan 2, 2005, 5:57 AM
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I try to stay away from Rock n Chalk, in Newmarket. They double up routes, and the setting wasn't that great the last time I was there. (It's where I started climbing, and it's just gone downhill) If you're gonna leave Toronto, go to the pad. The boulders there are sweet, and the prices are the same or close enough.
As for gyms in Toronto, my preference is Rockheads. It is awesome and huge.
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tradrenn
Feb 4, 2005, 2:55 AM
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:lol:
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tradrenn
Feb 4, 2005, 3:04 AM
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:lol:
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benj
Feb 4, 2005, 3:56 AM
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Ive climbed at every gym in the GTA, even worked at more than half of them. Though I'll concede there are some ppl at rockheads that an be dicks that is not a fair comment for everyone who goes there. Yes, Oasis has taller walls but Rockhead's has MUCH more space and the lead are's walls may be only 40 feet tall but because of their undulating nature offer more than 60 feet of climbing. Oasis' 60 footers are dead vert, some with one lightly overhanging panel... boring, and their one steep leading area is in the 40 foot tall section. Same idea as Rockheads except the space is significantly smaller.
Membership prices are pretty even throughout the gta. Good luck.
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kriso9tails
Feb 4, 2005, 5:07 AM
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In reply to: maybe it is time to seperate boys from the man and you should start leading then you will have the belay you want eh. Re: "ugly climbs" in other words we call it chalenge or difficult or different Ok Eh ?
I can only assume you mean me and that you're posting in jest. I've been leading for around seven years, but of the people I have climbed with at Oasis as of late, none of them lead, so I tr. Also, I took their lead test six years ago, but had not climbed there for over four years until recently, so I was no longer in their records. Since I only climb there maybe once a month on a whim I don't really care to bother with the test again.
And as for their routes: it's got nothing to do with challenge or being difficult or different. I like Oasis, but i have always found some of the routes ugly. I've climbed at many different areas that have had climbing styles that I found alien, but that's a seperate issue. The OP asked for opinions and that was mine. I like their boulder problems, but I find that certain routes really don't flow very well, and I've met many climbers who agree. This includes routes that I have easily onsighted in proper sequence.
You don't have to agree but please don't give me bull shit about being closed minded. Well, maybe it's fair because I'm just going to completely reject your statement about it being "time to seperate boys from the man." Such surgery seems painful and needless, and I just may decide someday that I want to have kids. =P
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shakylegs
Feb 4, 2005, 2:56 PM
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Do all the gyms in TO have belay set ups (i.e. Grigri locked into rope), or was that just Joe's? I've only been once, enjoyed it, but I find that gyms that simply increase a route's difficulty by making the holds reachy is taking the easy way out. Found it weird but the no-shoes no-walkie rule, but every gym has its own idiosyncracies.
Um, would it be okay to say that the ratings were soft? Because no way am I a 12 climber, except at Joe's.
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chills
Feb 4, 2005, 3:25 PM
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I have only been to TCA once and I climb at Rockheads at least once a week. I enjoyed TCA when I went but the ratings seemed a bit soft...whatever I still had fun. I haven't been to Oasis but my friends who have been there liked it, they said that the routes are higher but are spaced closer together than at Joe's. As far as I know there is only a couple bucks difference in price throughout the city so that is likely not a factor. As for people saying there are more "dicks" climbing at one gym than another...I don't know about that; I have met tons of friends at Joe's, everyone has always been very nice to me but a bad experience is always a possibility. My advice is try out them all and you may find you like one more based on the type of climbing you like best and the atmosphere you prefer....
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wings
Feb 4, 2005, 4:09 PM
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Pros for Rock Oasis:
1. 60' walls.
2. The roof (a long overhanging section of the gym with 2 routes, one usually around 5.10a, the other usually 5.11a or higher).
3. A very high percentage of the climbers there are the same people you will see out at the crags. I personally like that.
Pros for Joe Rockheads:
1. Lots of overhanging routes.
2. I've heard many people speak highly of the routesetting (although I myself have no opinion on it).
Pros for TCA:
1. Usually very empty.
Pros for The Pad:
1. Interesting bouldering setup.
I would also say that the average age of the people at Oasis is higher than the average age of the people at Rockheads. I don't know why that is, and I don't know if that's good or bad. I've never seen enough people at TCA to have any comment regarding this.
- Seyil
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kriso9tails
Feb 4, 2005, 10:19 PM
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In reply to: Um, would it be okay to say that the ratings were soft? Because no way am I a 12 climber, except at Joe's.
I was talking about this with my mom not too long ago. Last time I was in (two months ago) I found the grades a little soft, but I sort of lost my sense of grading many years ago. My mom said that she finds their 10s easier than their 8s and 9s at times. It doesn't really bother me though since gym grades really only have any relevance within the gym they're given in.
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tradrenn
Feb 5, 2005, 2:25 AM
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:lol:
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kriso9tails
Feb 5, 2005, 3:21 AM
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heh... I was just kidding around, but I was also feeling really bitter yesterday so I guess some of that accidentally crept in.
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tradrenn
Feb 5, 2005, 3:42 AM
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:lol:
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anemone
Feb 5, 2005, 5:15 AM
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I've been to all three gyms also (Rockheads, Oasis - a long time ago though, and TCA).
I really like TCA. The people are really friendly there, and it's easy to start talking to others and make friends, or better yet, climbing partners :wink: The other two places didn't give the warmest vibe...not Oasis as much, and definitely not Rockheads.
The age of the people who climb there tend to be older than that of the other two gyms (I believe UT students climb a lot at the others?), but I've never felt out of place. It's kinda homely. The smell is kinda homely too, lol. In a good way.
The reason why I started climbing at TCA is because my climbing partner started off there. But, only after joining did I realize that the annual membership works differently than the Oasis and Rockheads. At Oasis and Rockheads, you pay a premium on your first month of joining (for example, $99), and you pay less for any consecutive months afterwards (i.e. $40). Main word, consecutive. At TCA, you pay an annual fee (i.e. $59), and all your months within that year will be one rate (i.e.$40). The reason I mention this is because if you're not certain you'll be climbing a lot every single consecutive month, then paying the extra bit for every start up month hurts.
I like TCA, but part of the reason I stay is because I go to school out of town with on-off 4month coop terms, so the 'I'm covered for a year' annual fee at TCA works out well for me. I know someone who goes on business trips often, and on busy months, he doesn't buy the monthly pass. My climbing partner injured himself recently, so he had to sit out for a month or so, and it works out well.
If I'm wrong with how the memberships are set up at the other gyms, someone please correct me - that's what I got out of the websites and talking to someone about Rockheads.
The other two gyms are great too...it's hard to ignore the great high routes (3 stories I think?) at Oasis, and the challenging (albeit pumpy) routes at Rockheads. But TCA is a good choice if you already like the atmosphere there, and the membership setup can be to your benefit.
Hope this helps! :)
- anemone
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arjunrattan
Feb 5, 2005, 6:59 AM
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thanks for all the usefull insight guys! ive finally taken the plunge(whopping 99$ on a poor students pocket)..and joined oasis..its awsome its close to univ(u of t) ,is reasonable..just 35$ a months...and plus the climbing,bouldering and ppl there are all awsome! plus lot of u of t kids climb there so its fun..anywayys tc ppl and climb hard!
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tradrenn
Feb 5, 2005, 6:19 PM
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:lol:
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kriso9tails
Feb 5, 2005, 6:21 PM
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In reply to: That's ok I myself sametimes feel frustrated you know like when you got no one to climb with perhaps we could try climb together some day maybe Rattlesnake Point for this sunday ? :D Sunny and +7 that should do it
I'm hitting the glen this Sunday, but I'm up for next weekend if the weather holds (and it better because I didn't make all those virgin sacrifices for nothin').
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tradrenn
Feb 5, 2005, 6:27 PM
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:lol:
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graniteplanet
Feb 25, 2005, 8:08 PM
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Sweet God I love Canada, usually a misunderstanding in the forms leads to one huge p!$$!ng match of worthless uninformed insults followed by a rapid degeneration of the discussion and finally ending in both, pleas to return to the discussion at hand, and even more uninformed insults which at this point are usually centered on the sexual habits of the two squabblers mothers. Here we have two people have a minor misunderstanding, remarkably they recognize that it was in fact a misunderstanding, and in the end they wind up making plans to go climbing together, which is of course the entire point of this form. I LOVE CANADA.
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