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zarathustra
Dec 20, 2004, 4:42 AM
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I'm heading out west in early Jan. to meet up with some friends in Phoenix before we roadtrip out through CA to Bishop and wanted to get some thoughts on the best places to climb in central AZ. Right now we're looking at maybe a day or two in Queen Creek and possibly heading up to Sedona if we have the time but no plans are definite. What are some some of the best areas (or routes even) to hit in winter for good moderate sport and easier multi- or single-pitch trad? What places are essential if we have less than a week in town?
Abilities in our group range from leading 8's to easy 11's on sport and probablly below 8's on trad. Bouldering too would be cool but we'll probablly be all bouldered out after Bishop.
Also, is there an essential guidebook(s) we should have? Thanks
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reno
Dec 20, 2004, 4:45 AM
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Tons of options in Queen Creek.
Some stuff in the McDowells, Pinnacle Peak, and elsewhere in the Superstitions. Sedona might be cold. Flagstaff will be cold.
Shoot me a PM when it gets closer, and I'll arrange time to climb with ya, if you wish.
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pk
Dec 20, 2004, 4:50 AM
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If you have a long day, and are up for an hour to hour and a half hike Lower Devils Canyon is superb in queens creek. The Rock Jock's guide to Queens Creek Canyon by Marty Karabin has everything you will need to know about it. You can get it at the REI there when you get into town.
climberchic can give you better info I'm sure if you pm her she was more than helpfull to me when I visited as I am not a local. But we climbed all over Queens Creek and I would highly reccommend and not miss Lower Devils canyon as it was a very memorable day.
P.K.
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epic_ed
Dec 20, 2004, 5:54 AM
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Queen Creek is a very nice sport climbing option. Upper and Lowers Devils Canyon is sweet, but you need to hook up with someone who has a 4x4.
There are some very classic trad routes in the McDowell's that I'd say are in your range. Hanging Garden on Gardner's Wall is stellar for the grade. Pay Pinnacle Peak a visit just to get schooled on how AZ granite routes can make you whimper on a 5.6 (or maybe it's just me).
Sedona will probably be cold. The Prescott area might be kind of chilly but if the temps are decent there are some good crags up there worth a visit. High Rappel Dell and Watson Lake have a good mix of trad and sport on granite domes.
Places to avoid -- Camelback Mtn. Others may disagree, but I hate that fucking pile. It's a choss heap IMO, with a handful of routes worth climbing. If you must pay it a visit, go do the Monk and head home.
Hope you have fun while you're here.
Ed
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pk
Dec 20, 2004, 5:57 AM
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In reply to: Queen Creek is a very nice sport climbing option. Upper and Lowers Devils Canyon is sweet, but you need to hook up with someone who has a 4x4. Ed
On a side note who did most of the route devel in lower devels out of curiosity?
P.K.
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rock_diva
Dec 21, 2004, 1:28 AM
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In reply to: On a side note who did most of the route devel in lower devels out of curiosity? P.K.
From the guidebook, it looks like there were many people developing Lower Devil's... including Mark Trainer, Marty Karabin, Perry Teeters, the Gilbreaths (Pat and Anita).. there are several more. Marty is probably the best one to ask about that.
btw... check out the segment on Marty in the January '05 issue of Climbing magazine.
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ebelay
Dec 21, 2004, 1:51 AM
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Queen Creek has plenty of sport and is convenient to the greater Phoenix area. If you go, The Pond and Upper Devil's are great with the Pond being the better option if it's cold. Atlantis is convenient but it could be very cold down there.
As mentioned, Pinnacle Peak and the McDowell's have some fun 1-2 pitch moderate trad. The Superstition Mtns. just east of Phoenix have plenty of "adventure" trad climbs. The Razor's Edge is a classic 5.6 which I would highly recommend if you visit the Supersitions.
Sedona will be chilly but you can get some pockets of nice weather up there. If you go to Sedona, do The Mace. Classic 5.9.
If you like microbrews, good food and nice atmosphere, definitely go to Four Peaks Brewing in Tempe. Great way to end a solid day of climbing.
Have Fun.
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