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brundige
Dec 22, 2004, 10:40 PM
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How do i use the built in light meter to determine maximum exposure
and on snow how do i know how much to over expose . could i just use a polarizing filter, since this takes out a stop of light do i have to over expose +1 anyways?
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tim
Dec 22, 2004, 11:25 PM
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typical correction is +2 stops for snow in full sunlight.
Not sure about using a c-pol. I'd bracket if I were you :-)
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sandbag
Dec 22, 2004, 11:42 PM
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In reply to: How do i use the built in light meter to determine maximum exposure and on snow how do i know how much to over expose . could i just use a polarizing filter, since this takes out a stop of light do i have to over expose +1 anyways?
i think you meant underexpose, snow is 'hot' and will be over exposed in everything you shoot if you 'over expose it'. if youre trying to dial in a particular film or camera, burn a few rolls of film, or if its digi, electrons. ;) just remember to take notes on the settings so you can chart the progression
as for the Circular polarizer, depends on the unit, i have one that is 2.5 steps, huge, but i use it when the light is way hot or if i want interesting shots with raw light. look at some of my pics youll get the idea... good luck
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sandbag
Dec 22, 2004, 11:50 PM
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And as far as the built in meter, truly depends on the camera. Im hell bent on making my hobbie a profession someday, but the camera and the meter they supply is really a " you get what you pay for ' situation. and again, you can 'dial' your camera with certain film. the nice thing about spending 1500 for a Nikon or canon body is the amount of flexibility you get, but if you learn on lesser models, youre going to build the basics and really appreciate the advanced features and whistels of the Leica's, Bronicas, Nikons, etc. go shoot and learn grasshopper...........
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chanceboarder
Dec 23, 2004, 12:18 AM
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here's a little trick for shooting in snow conditions. if you have a spot meter use that to meter on almost anything that's in the same light as what you're trying to shoot that isn't snow. a grey card works well or holding your hand out and metering it works. this will give you the correct exposure for what you're trying to shoot. the light reflecting off the snow is very bright and because of that your camera wants to close the apature or use a fast shutter speed to compensate. this not only gives you that mudy or dirty looking snow but also under exposes everything else. you really do have to over expose anywhere from 1 to 3 stops depending on the conditions if you're meter reading is mostly coming from the snow. this will give a bright white snow and everything else will be correctly exposed. if you don't have a spot meter on your camera just zoom in on something like that grey card or a backpack (that isn't black or white but a more nutral color) and just fill the whole frame and use that meter reading. then go back and recompose on what you want to shoot and use the meter reading you took. the camera is gonna say its over exposed cuz theres so much light reflecting off the snow but it the correct exposure. i shoot snowboard and landscape photographs with a lot of snow. its a little tricky but you'll get it, just play around with it.
jason
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brundige
Dec 23, 2004, 10:13 PM
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alright thanks , is there a way to determine maximum of exposure for bulb exposure , ya know for the night time star shots ,lightning,etc
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sandbag
Dec 23, 2004, 10:18 PM
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on a film camera bulb is infinity. it closes when you release the open shutter, bulb is derived from the air bulb that old old cameras used to release the shutters. now they have remote cables to lessen or eliminate the shake of doing this by hand. Digital "bulb' is limited because of the noise the CCD experiences by remaining in a charged state. i think they get as much as 30 seconds, maybe up to minutes now, i havent followed the big digital wave yet, im just hangin out in the flotsam....
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brundige
Dec 23, 2004, 10:26 PM
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so will the camera change the apeture and ss to compensate for the length of the bulb
also if i use a hot shoe flash will the camera know to take in affect the added light and adjust the exposure accordingly
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sandbag
Dec 23, 2004, 10:32 PM
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what kind of camera do you have? No apeture isnt automatically selected on bulb, bulb is uber manual, ie you get to set it all up. the film used will change the exposures, the filters, ie UV/IR...in a nutshell, bulb photography takes you back to the late 1800s and the real beauty of the art of photography.
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brundige
Dec 23, 2004, 10:49 PM
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i got a canon eos rebel 2000
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chanceboarder
Dec 23, 2004, 11:18 PM
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In reply to: so will the camera change the apeture and ss to compensate for the length of the bulb also if i use a hot shoe flash will the camera know to take in affect the added light and adjust the exposure accordingly
i'm asuming when you ask about the flash your talking about normal shooting conditions and not using your bulb setting. if you use a TTL (automatic) flash on your camera's hot shoe your camera and flash will sync up together to give you the correct exposue, for what ever the flash will cover of course. that depends on how strong of a flash you have. the rest of your scene that the flash dose not cover may or may not be under exposed depending on the difference in stops between the light of the flash and the natural light in the background.
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brundige
Dec 23, 2004, 11:49 PM
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so are you sayin that basically use th flash if i know it has the range to cover my subject and if not then dont
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chanceboarder
Dec 23, 2004, 11:57 PM
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In reply to: so are you sayin that basically use th flash if i know it has the range to cover my subject and if not then dont
jason
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pico23
Jan 6, 2005, 5:40 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: How do i use the built in light meter to determine maximum exposure and on snow how do i know how much to over expose . could i just use a polarizing filter, since this takes out a stop of light do i have to over expose +1 anyways? i think you meant underexpose, snow is 'hot' and will be over exposed in everything you shoot if you 'over expose it'.
I'm a bit confused. for snow, you'd open 1.5 to 2 stops (thus increase exposure, or overexpose). That is provided you are spot metering off the snow or that snow predominates the scene. Snows white so the camera meter under exposes the whole scene.
If I spot meter off a dark persons face I close the aperture (or EV comp) by about 1 stop (depending on skin tone) because the camera will over expose them.
Bright scenes trick the camera into under exposure if your shooting in auto. Sunsets are a good example. Snow is another. Increasing exposure comp by 1.5-2 stops is required.
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pico23
Jan 6, 2005, 6:01 PM
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In reply to: alright thanks , is there a way to determine maximum of exposure for bulb exposure , ya know for the night time star shots ,lightning,etc
That stuff is mostly trial and error. Bulb settings are pretty much based on film reciprocity failures and such. It's still the same principals but with a added dimension.
For star trails try wide open at with a long lens for 2 hours. (200mm f/4-5.6). or 5-7 hours with a 24mm lens at f/2.8. ISO 100-200 slide film works well. Provia is good. You need a cable release or a T setting. Manual cameras or the high end canons with fancy non battery draining shutters (holy crap i had something positive to say about a wonder camera) are nice. usually if the batteries die the shutter stays open on most cameras.
lightning and fireworks are simple. Well I say simple for lightning. I have yet to capture anything usable but the settings and technique are the same so it's just a matter of time. Fireworks on the other hand are a captive audience with at least 1 chance per year to practice on.
Use a cable release. fixed lens (35-50mm) set at f/8-11 with infinity focus set. Time the shutter openning for a few burst. Or put a black card in front of the lens and leave it open till your happy with the burst.
generally anything you'd use a bulb setting on overexposure is not a huge problem.
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melekzek
Jan 6, 2005, 6:48 PM
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In reply to: high end canons with fancy non battery draining shutters
i think only discontinued eos 10 had this kind of shutter. All other canon eos cameras use the battery to keep the shutter open.
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pico23
Jan 6, 2005, 7:23 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: high end canons with fancy non battery draining shutters i think only discontinued eos 10 had this kind of shutter. All other canon eos cameras use the battery to keep the shutter open.
thats a shame, that was truly an innovation that all cameras should have. One of the few that I would truly find useful. but probably not a feature aimed at the sports/journalism market canon markets for.
i find it funny that camera companies seem to often take back the truly good features from there cameras. Like the Nikon F6 has a fixed prism (the first F that did). The F4 had Matrix metering with older lenses but the F5 didn't.
The Canons lost the magnetic shutter lockup.
While Pentax overhauled the lacking AF system in it's Z-1 the replacement while superior in that one area actually lost the one superior edge the Z-1 had, user interface. That was a great camera, all it needed was better AF system.
Sometimes I think they remove the features just so they can add them in later as an inovation and sell another model.
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melekzek
Jan 6, 2005, 10:05 PM
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In reply to: i find it funny that camera companies seem to often take back the truly good features from there cameras.
I hear you. Dont get me started on the epilepsy inducing flash bursts on the newest eos bodies instead of a simple AF assist light. It is the single important reason I had to upgrade my body. I just got an 10 year old, discontinued but excellent eos 5 body. They are soo cheap thanks to their age and the revolution..... you know, the digital revolution :wink:
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