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coyoteblues
Jun 15, 2003, 4:37 AM
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In reply to: BWT is a fairly common term.
BWT's unite! You need not feel ashamed. You far outnumber the elite and supposed elite. You need not feel inferior. Free your mind!
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xanx
Jun 15, 2003, 6:09 AM
Post #102 of 124
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In reply to: Fact is 95% of the people, climbers and non-climbers alike, who have met Pete cannot bear his presense for long.
interesting, perhaps you could describe how you measured this parameter? sounds like you just used a little hearsay...
seriously, it is pretty low to come into a forum titled "Prais to PTPP" and start bashing him... there are about a million other forums dedicated to just that! go there!
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drkodos
Jun 15, 2003, 6:16 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Fact is 95% of the people, climbers and non-climbers alike, who have met Pete cannot bear his presense for long. interesting, perhaps you could describe how you measured this parameter? sounds like you just used a little hearsay... seriously, it is pretty low to come into a forum titled "Prais to PTPP" and start bashing him... there are about a million other forums dedicated to just that! go there!
It's not low.
If we had a thread that stated "Hitler was right about the French" would those that feel differently be banned from opining?
Not that many would argue that point.....BUT, if they did, they should be, and are, allowed to voice their oppositional thoughts.
It's the Internet. New rules apply. Not sure what they are because they are still primordial in their formation. Don't drag preconceived paradigms of communication into cyberspace.
Let it fester, and develop a new set of standards.
People are scared to voice their real opinions in public these days. Just be thankful we can all masquerade as someone else and voice our real opinions here without losing our jobs or something, okay?
:D
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rrrADAM
Jun 15, 2003, 3:12 PM
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'xanx'... You seemed to miss this in the same post you quoted from me:
In reply to: Hearsay ??? Man how Pete loves to discredit any detractors with that "buzzword". I think you are missing the logic though... We as climbers, free climbers at least, use the YDS here in America. It is subjective, and is an average of the grade given by many climbers who have done the route. If 95% of the climbers who have ascended a route say it is 5.11a, is that "hearsay" ??? |
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flamer
Jun 15, 2003, 3:14 PM
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drkodos,
Well said!
josh
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passthepitonspete
Jun 23, 2003, 7:32 AM
Post #106 of 124
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In reference to the comments on page 7, it only takes one summit to graduate from Big Wall Theorist to Big Wall Gumby.
Quit whining and start climbing.
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coyoteblues
Jun 23, 2003, 3:09 PM
Post #107 of 124
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In reply to: ...it only takes one summit to graduate from Big Wall Theorist to Big Wall Gumby.
BWG's unite! You need not feel ashamed. You far outnumber the elite and supposed elite. You need not feel inferior. Free your mind!
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passthepitonspete
Jun 23, 2003, 5:12 PM
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Degumbyfication is a lifetime pursuit.
I was considering this very notion the other day under "interesting" conditions.
I was linking the last two pitches of Zed-Em [in my desire to get off the damn wall after a week!] which is where Lost in America finishes. When I attempted to pull up my solo tag rack to the penultimate belay, the damn thing wouldn't move! Frig! I'd buggered something up! And things had been going so well up to this point.....
Sheesh.
So I had no choice but to stick my Grigri on the excess lead line, and rap back down to the lower anchor to free the tag rack, since my lead rope bag just happens to be attached to my tag rack.
Unfortunately, this involved some doing. I was two thousand feet off the deck on an overhanging and traversing pitch! [Scary] So down I rapped, Grigri on the upper rope, jug on the diagonal rope going across to my tag rack, which was snagged on heaven-only-knows.
With fear and trepidation at the tag rack suddenly cutting free as I jugged in towards it [thus sending me on a terrifying hopefully-only-horizontal journey] I tensioned in towards the lower belay, perched on the edge of oblivion. As I drew closer I could see the whole kit and kaboodle was held in place by one of my hooks that had punctured my hook bag [we shall talk more in the future about hook bags with holes in them....] and which somehow managed to hold long enough to hold me as I reached it. [Imagine the consequences of the tag rack, which weighs about fifty pounds, suddenly cutting loose at this moment]
My problem?
I had attached both ends of the haul line to the tag rack! [Like, you're only supposed to attach the top end, eh? Like, the bottom end attaches to the anchor so you can return via rappelling it when you come back down to cut the pigs free and clean the pitch] In my eagerness to top out, I had made a rather fundamental error which went unnoticed.
Oh dear.
So the tag rack [and myself jugging across horizontally] had been held in place by the weight of the bottom end of the haul line in the haul line bag.
Note that all of this took place in one of the most terrifying, overhanging, and exposed places imaginable!
I greedily hooked my daisies into the anchor and breathed a sigh.
Now curiously, once the tag rack was unhooked and the haul line reattached, I was now fifty feet off of plumb, with only about twenty feet of lower-out line available [naturally, this being at best a 2:1 lower-out since the tag rack had to come with me, I was in a bit of a pickle......]
So degumbify this:
Your tag rack sits on a fifi at your lower belay, and you have insufficient lower-out line to return to plumb. You can't leave your tag rack because you need to pull it up, and you can't lower out with your excess tag line because it's attached to your tag rack, which hangs by nothing more by a fifi hook, and you're hanging from the end of a gossamer [did I spell that right?] thread that runs across an edge sixty feet above, and there ain't NOTHIN' BUT AIR, BAY-BEE beneath you for a LONG FREAKIN' WAY DOWN!
Voice of Karl Malden in the old American Express TV commercials:
"You're on vacation and your wallet is stolen. What will you do, what will you do?!"
Now there naturally was a solution to this engaging little dilemma I had gotten myself into - but can you tell me what I must have done?
[Ivo was right.....]
Yup - it is times like these that remind me I may never graduate from Big Wall Gumby.....
But a few hours later - the pigs having been Far End Hauled across the summit roofs and slabs - I sat on the summit of El Cap at midnight [having reached this summit purely and completely under my own power]. The glow of the campfire warmed my heart, not to mention my flesh, and I finished off the last of my Olde English, which had by now cooled to a temperature well below its normal "tepid". I couldn't help but feel thankful to have made the cut from Theorist to Gumby.
A sliver of moonlight beamed across the slabs of granite which extended downwards towards Washington Column - from here, the Column appears little more than pimple-sized - and I gazed beyond towards the bulk of Half Dome's mighty Northwest Face looming in silhouette behind the pine needles. Above me, I took curious satisfaction in seeing Ursa Major and Polaris for the first time in over a week.
A couple more sips drained the can, and I tossed it onto the rocks beside me where it impacted with a satisfying "clank". [If you have ever spent a week on the wall, you will understand how incredibly good it feels to drop something, and see it actually stay where it lands, Sometimes just for fun, I have been known to drop stuff on the ground, and then bend over to pick it up. It's the most amazing thing, really.....]
The campfire embers had faded to a dim orange glow, and I spread my sleeping bag out across a low spot nestled between two comforting blocks. Having slept on nylon for the past week, the firmness of the sand beneath me was a true blessing. I crawled inside my "pit" - sans tie-in - and drifted contentedly off to sleep.
I am Dr. Piton,
and I revel in my status of Big Wall Gumby.
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karlbaba
Jun 23, 2003, 5:32 PM
Post #109 of 124
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In reply to: Degumbyfication is a lifetime pursuit. snip So degumbify this: Your tag rack sits on a fifi at your lower belay, and you have insufficient lower-out line to return to plumb. You can't leave your tag rack because you need to pull it up, and you can't lower out with your excess tag line because it's attached to your tag rack, which hangs by nothing more by a fifi hook, and you're hanging from the end of a gossamer [did I spell that right?] thread that runs across an edge sixty feet above, and there ain't NOTHIN' BUT AIR, BAY-BEE beneath you for a LONG FREAKIN' WAY DOWN! Voice of Karl Malden in the old American Express TV commercials: "You're on vacation and your wallet is stolen. What will you do, what will you do?!" Now there naturally was a solution to this engaging little dilemma I had gotten myself into - but can you tell me what I must have done? snip
Welcome back Dr. P.
Seems like the tag rack is a luxury that could be dispensed with in the kind of bind you were in. Why not just take the gear that you might need, put the rest of the rack in the haul bag, and use the tag line to lower out?
Did it seem particularly windy on that end of the wall this time?
PEace
Karl
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kevlar
Sep 4, 2003, 5:37 AM
Post #110 of 124
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Peter, peter , peter.....
seeing you an sharing drink with you was the highlight of my summer...but then...did I forget to mention that I have been throwing up ever since...." did I catch SARS from you? " lol
Rock on Dr. P...
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ricardol
Dec 28, 2004, 1:25 AM
Post #111 of 124
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how about this for an oldie -- but goodie ..
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ricardol
Dec 28, 2004, 1:27 AM
Post #112 of 124
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:P
.. seeing dr. kodos on st.com .. i just want to have a moment of silence for those who are not with us (in the website) anymore ..
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atg200
Dec 28, 2004, 2:01 AM
Post #113 of 124
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a moment of blathering and self promotion would be more appropriate.
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climbsomething
Dec 28, 2004, 2:32 AM
Post #114 of 124
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In reply to: a moment of blathering and self promotion would be more appropriate. |
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atg200
Dec 28, 2004, 2:41 AM
Post #115 of 124
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it works for any banned doctor!
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epic_ed
Dec 28, 2004, 3:01 AM
Post #116 of 124
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Ricardo, I luv u man, but...
STFU!!!
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ricardol
Dec 28, 2004, 3:28 AM
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ed ..
..damm .. that was harsh ..
.. i know kodos is giving you a (and the rest of rc.com) a hard time .. but you guys gotta take it in stride .. its just a website afterall .. bits of 0's and 1's ..
.. and you guys are totally taking the fun out of it by marking these threads so that they dont show up on the front page .. :(
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epic_ed
Dec 28, 2004, 4:04 AM
Post #118 of 124
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You're taking the STFU too seriously, bro -- I'm joking around.
But in regards to seeing Pete's old posts randomly get bumped to the top and recirculate on the FP -- why is it fun?
Ed
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ricardol
Dec 28, 2004, 6:00 AM
Post #119 of 124
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because it gets people ryled up .. over nothing..
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epic_ed
Dec 28, 2004, 6:08 AM
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OK -- which is my point. There's no purposeful reason to bring one of those old threads back up. It's fine if it's to continue a discussion about some technical related stuff, but to say we get riled up about nothing isn't the truth. It bothers me because it adds nothing to any on going current discussion, and rather detracts from the site because people pop up like gophers "somebody mention Pete??" "Pete? Who's this Pete guy?" "Yeah, where's Pete been?" "Oh tht's right -- he was banned...or something like that"
And the whole freakin discussion starts all over again and it gives me questions to answer -- again. So to me, it's not harmless fun.
Ed
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epic_ed
Dec 28, 2004, 6:57 AM
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epic_ed moved this thread from Suggestions, Questions & Feedback. to Trip Reports.
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ricardol
Dec 28, 2004, 8:52 AM
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ed ...
you should think of it as therapy then ..
it has a name .. i think its called - desensitation .. (spelled incorrectly i'm sure!) ..
.. the site made a choice -- to get rid of several users, and to make several others the keepers of all that is rc.com ..
.. at the same time the site benefits from having good info around (pete's posts) ..
.. there are good ways to moderate and bad ways .. telling people what they can and can't talk about is bad .. doing smart things (like tagging this post to not show up in the main page) is a smart way to moderate ..
.. so sit back .. and just dont worry about wether pete's list of posts from 2001 to 2003 starts reappearing .. -- its not like there is some great topic of conversation going on in the aid forum .. its raining cats and dogs in the bay area .. and snowing in the valley .. no climbing to do right now!
-- ricardo
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timstich
Dec 28, 2004, 9:14 AM
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Are you drkodos?
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thomasribiere
Dec 28, 2004, 1:46 PM
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^ :lol:
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