|
taualum23
Dec 28, 2004, 9:22 PM
Post #1 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 2370
|
Hey all. I'm looking at the Koflach Degre boots. Anybody have any input/experience. I will probably not do any serious ice, mostly winter hiking in the whites, daks, and catskills, and some occasional WI3, maybe some brief WI4. If anyone has used these boots, what's a good match in crampons that will enable both steep snow work as well as occasional technical ice? Anybody with real world experience as to temperature comfort range?
Also...looking for something more aggresive than a general mountaineering axe that would still take me up snow fields, etc, but could be used on low grade ice....does such a beast exist? My aggressive ice tools are WAY too aggressive...input would be appreciated.
J
|
|
|
|
|
sandbag
Dec 28, 2004, 10:06 PM
Post #2 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2003
Posts: 1443
|
I have the Grivel G-14 Crampomatics, great!!! and the bent shaft Pulsars, little short for long flats but for steep alpine and vertical ice work great and can still be used like a standard mountaineering axe.
|
|
|
|
|
jimdavis
Dec 29, 2004, 3:46 AM
Post #3 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
|
I've used the Degre's before and I wasn't that impressed, when I went shopping for my boots I bought the Verticals. I bought them for doing more Ice then snow hiking though, but I'd still recommend them over the Degre's. You should try them both out though.
I used the Degres for a brief snowshoe into a winter campsite in maybe 15 degree weather and my feet were very cold, i usually have cold feet, and they were rental boots that had probably seen better days, but still.
I have yet to have cold feet in my Verticals. I am gearing up to do a 4 day winter backpacking trip in Baxter National Park, Maine in about a week and a half, so I'll try and remember to post on how the boots work out. I know a guy that uses them for everything from snow slogs in Alaska, to Ice climbs and mountaineering in the Himalayas, and he's very happy with them.
As for crampons, the BD Sabertooths are pretty good. All of the most experienced Ice climbers I know lead ice up to 3+/ 4 in horizontal front points unless it's really really hard ice. I've heard and seen the Petzl Blackice's as an alternative to the BD's, but they're not made anymore. Even Will Gadd states in his book that for pure ice routes he uses horizontal front points.
For axes, check out the Petzl/ Charlet Axars and Aztars. Also, I used the DMM Fly's the other day to TR some badass Ice/ Mixed route (with the emphasis on the mixed) and they worked very well. They are almost straight, so I'd think they'd be fine for mountaineering use as well. The pinky shelf might be a little pain in the butt, might want to ask if anyone has used these tools for this purpose before.
I've used the Aztars on two seperate occassions and loved them, and they're designed for alpine ice. I also know a guy that picked up a set of Grivel Alp Wings for Alpine Ice as well.
Koflach Verticals, BD Sabertooths, and Charlet Aztars have my pick. Try calling up some of the company reps and talking to them about it though, they'd be happy to recommend what would suit you best out of their product line.
Cheers,
Jim
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Dec 29, 2004, 1:23 PM
Post #4 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
i have a pair of koflach degrees and i feel as though they have the warmth of a leather and the feel of a plastic without many of the benefits of either. others must feel the same as i routenly spot them on bargain sale at ebay. though i did use my degrees for rainier without any problems, but i tend to be a 'warm' person. for ice and almost everything else i use laportiva lhotse's which i find to be very sensative and comfy. if i wanted something way warm and was willing to sacrafice sensativity i'd agree on the koflach vertical's as recomended above.
i agree on the dmm fly's and the bd sabretooth's.
|
|
|
|
|
taualum23
Dec 29, 2004, 1:47 PM
Post #5 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 2370
|
Thanks for all of the replies. I had heard that the verticals didn't hike too well. If they do, maybe I have found my boots. As for axes, the aztars look like they would be the best suited for what I'm looking for. My main concern is that they might be really short for the longer slogs on not steeps snow, when I would probably be happier with a standard mountaineering axe, but I would really hate to carry three tools.
I need to go try it all out. Thanks, everybody,
J
|
|
|
|
|
jbell2355
Dec 29, 2004, 1:56 PM
Post #6 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 23, 2004
Posts: 207
|
I have the Koflach Degres and like them for really steep ice, but they're not the best for hiking. If I have to walk any distance, I prefer my Makalu's. They work great with any Grivel Cramp-o-matic binding. The Grivel g-12 is a good semi-rigid 12 point crampon that will work for steep snow and some techincal ice. I would recommend getting a pair of La Sportiva Makalu's or Nepal Extreme's with a pair of Grivel G-12s. I think that would be a great setup for what you'll be doing.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Dec 29, 2004, 2:57 PM
Post #7 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
It sounds like you want two tools - a fairly long (75cm) mountaineering ax and a plungeable technical ax. Take a look at the Shrike I'm selling (in For Sale forum). You can't see through the tag on the grip but there is no pinkie ledge there. And maybe check out Ebay for a BD Raven or similar mtnrg ax.
|
|
|
|
|
jimdavis
Dec 29, 2004, 10:08 PM
Post #8 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935
|
In reply to: I had heard that the verticals didn't hike too well. If they do, maybe I have found my boots. As for axes, the aztars look like they would be the best suited for what I'm looking for. My main concern is that they might be really short for the longer slogs on not steeps snow, when I would probably be happier with a standard mountaineering axe, but I would really hate to carry three tools. I need to go try it all out. Thanks, everybody, J
Well, I'm not saying that the Verticals hike like Sorels or anything, but if you want a warm double boot that you can take up high, and do some hard ice with I'd still recommend the Vertical. On the hike in to an Ice climb the other day, the cuffs were hitting my calfs pretty bad. I think it's because I had them laced super tight for climbing though.
Double plastics will never hike that well, I just can't recommend the Degre's for what your asking, considering my past experiences with them.
Cheers,
Jmi
|
|
|
|
|
hugepedro
Dec 29, 2004, 11:17 PM
Post #9 of 9
(843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 2875
|
This is the axe you are looking for:
http://img.epinions.com/...e_Axe-resized200.jpg
This is my primary axe, the Grivel Jorasses. I have it in 70cm. It has a technical pick, so when the going gets real steep I can whip out my second tool and go near vertical for stretches. You can attach the leash on the shaft (as shown in the picture) for use as a technical tool, or on the head to ease plunging the shaft in deep snow.
|
|
|
|
|
|
