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sierraclimber1
Jan 2, 2005, 11:14 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2004
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I just posted a photo of the rock slide that fell onto the upper tier. It should post in 24 hours to the upper tier section.
I am one of the original developers of the area and am crushed by this event. The bottom third of the cliff is completely buried in rubble. You can step on at the 5th bolt in some cases. All the hardest routes at the crag are effected including the new route Dismembered 14a sent by Chris Linder this summer. He said it was the best 14 in SoCal. Unfortunately some of the funest moves and cruxes are gone on many routes. Most of the routes on the right side were bolted by me and news of someone stealing the permos is like being kicked when your down.
As far as restoring the crag to its original glory I have little hope. I have moved alot of rock around up there creating the terraces and have a pretty good idea what it would take to restore it. With the amount of rubble and size of the boulders even a crew of 30 climbers would hardly make a dent. The best thing to do now is probably build new terraces and enjoy what is left. Hopefully some rc.comers can be involved in the rebuild. I have recently moved away, but the other main developers Brent and Louie will probably get the ball rolling.
I know it sounds silly but I feel like I have lost a friend. Many of you who have spent a lot of time there probably feel the same. It is to bad other SoCal climbers won't be able to enjoy the routes in their origianl form. Things always change and this is a great reminder for me to enjoy what you have while you have it.
Grahm
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slavetogravity
Jan 2, 2005, 12:15 PM
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Sorry to hear about the loss. I don't suppose you'd have a "before" picture you could share?
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sierraclimber1
Jan 4, 2005, 7:01 PM
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I just received a photo from a friend that will work as the before photo. I am submitting it now. My first photo of the rock slide had to be resubmitted in low res. so it should hit the photos section soon...
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fredbob
Jan 6, 2005, 9:22 AM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2003
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Grahm:
How about posting the photos at a larger size? Just ramp down the quality and up the size.
There is some hope that the area may be restored at some point. Rubio Canyon Falls in the San Gabriel Mts. was buried under a rock slide a couple years ago, but very heavy rains (like we are experiencing now) ended up washing away literally tons of debris.
There is hope.....
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sierraclimber1
Jan 6, 2005, 10:08 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2004
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Great suggestion ,Thanks! The photos are down for now pending approval. Good point about the water. I hope your right!
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photon
Jan 6, 2005, 11:12 AM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2002
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has it crossed your mind that this might be a really dangerous place to climb considering the gigantic rock slide?
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dynosore
Jan 6, 2005, 11:17 AM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
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Is this area known for rockfall? I'd let it stabilize through spring freeze/thaw before I headed back :?
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sierraclimber1
Jan 7, 2005, 9:46 AM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2004
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Every year the winter storms knock down a few yards of debris that have to be removed. Occasionally in summer during winds rock bombs will drop from the sky. Sometimes without warning you just hear this huge thud and realize, that lunchpail size rock was not there a minute ago! If the weather is stable though nothing comes down. There was a giant scree slope above the canyon that was always the culprit. Its edged up right to the top of the cliff. The huge storm LA got is what must have cut it loose. Now that all the rock is down it might be safer.
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shano
Apr 8, 2005, 4:04 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2002
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bump --- so has anyone been up lately? Is the lower tier still workable?
Sounds like the bottom was untouched but I'd hate to drive thru Redlands and get shut down at Frustration (at least not until AFTER I rope up... :lol: )
-s
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socalbolter
Apr 8, 2005, 5:28 PM
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Lower Tier is unchanged.
Have fun!
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