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Partner polarwid


Jan 8, 2005, 3:31 PM
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Climbing's Great Hoaxes
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So, discuss what you think are some of the greatest hoaxes and practical jokes in the history of climbing, be they well known, or obscure and even personal...

A brief list of some of the great ones (IMHO):

    CAPTAIN COOK ascent of DENALI
    NORTHCUTT START to BASTILLE CRACK (he thought KOR climbed it)
    THE "RIESENSTEIN HOAX" from SUMMIT MAGAZINE (personal favorite)
    Getting sandbagged (because of my big mouth onto SOUTH RIDGE of WHITE SPIRE (personal event)


Feel free to discuss, and add some of your own hoaxes and practical jokes...


blakester


Jan 8, 2005, 5:21 PM
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


brianinslc


Jan 12, 2005, 1:40 PM
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Viva Largo on the cover of climbing magazine on an unknown boulder problem. Classic sandbag with trick photography! Revealed in Sherman's bouldering book.

Maestri on the Torre?

Brian in SLC


edge


Jan 12, 2005, 1:43 PM
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In reply to:
Viva Largo on the cover of climbing magazine on an unknown boulder problem. Classic sandbag with trick photography! Revealed in Sherman's bouldering book.

Maestri on the Torre?

Brian in SLC

I am not familiar with this third hoax you have listed. Was Brian never actually in SLC?


Partner polarwid


Jan 12, 2005, 1:46 PM
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I still think the RIESENSTEIN PEAKS were one of the greatest practical jokes of all time...

It ran for quite a long time, I believe...


mtman


Jan 12, 2005, 2:32 PM
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there was a good article about this topic in the nov 04 issue of Gripped that is worth checking out.

mtman


g-funk
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Not to be a total idiot, but the only one of these that I've ever heard of is Captain Cook's ascent of Denali. How about a brief explanation of these hoaxes.


alpinestylist


Jan 12, 2005, 2:55 PM
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I am not familiar with the Reisenstein Peak episode, does any care to educate me or refer me too a link?


I hate that most of these even exist. What we are dealing with really is character and integrity suicide. Something I cherish in most climbers I meet. You say you climbed it, spot on G-money, sick send...not, err so do you have photos from the summit?

That being said...

TOMO CESEN!!!! (or did he do it all?)

Is Howitt the liar guy from the Acongaua and Rainier speed ascents?

Sadly Maestri?????? K2, is disputed as well. I read his book and again, really want to believe the hard old man.


aztec6561


Jan 12, 2005, 3:14 PM
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Here is a link to a brief history on the Maestri on Cerro Torre scandal.

http://www.aqvi55.dsl.pipex.com/climb/cerro_torre.htm

Climbing magazine had a feature article on this scandal a couple of years ago and in my opinion the proof that Maestri was the first to climb Cerro Torre is extremely sketchy.


johnhemlock


Jan 12, 2005, 3:24 PM
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In reply to:
Climbing magazine had a feature article on this scandal a couple of years ago and in my opinion the proof that Maestri was the first to climb Cerro Torre is extremely sketchy.

Why isn't a man's word proof enough that he climbed something? Particularly the word of one of the finest climbers of his generation? It was sufficient for the first century of alpinism - only lately does one apparently need webcasts from the summit to verify such a claim.

To me, the proof that he didn't climb Cerro Torre is even sketchier. Maestri was a bad, bad man in his prime. IMO, if he says he climbed it, then he climbed it.


dingus


Jan 12, 2005, 3:38 PM
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I think those of you who are unfamiliar with these hoaxes would be far better served if you went out and researched them yourselves. And I'm not trying to be an asshole by suggesting that. Ours is a rich and complex history.

Climbing in North America, Chris Jones
Ways to the Sky, Setlers
A History of Free Climbing in America, Ament

Those u'll getchya going.

Juneau Ice Fields, 1949

Bill Putnam, Henry Pickham and others attempted the FA of Devil's Paw. Pickham was very nervous at the huge schrund and his partners finally had to yank on the rope to get him to cross. The retreated from the Col to camp. The next morning everyone agreed that Pickham should stay in camp. The team was successful and even though they returned well past midnight the enthusiastic Pickham was up to great and congatulate them.

Pickham DID have an impressive number of ascents behind him and they were listed on his AAC membership application. They were apparently delighted that such an accomplished mountaineer wanted to join. They approved on his membership for a vote.

The secretary of the club was writing up the meetings of the minutes when he began to piece it all together.

Pickham was Putnam's DOG! LOL!

Courtesy Chris Jones, Climbing in North America. THAT'S why you should get the boosk instead of getting the reader's digest versions here.

To the dude who says climbers are above hoaxes, I truly hope we never become so staid and Ward Clever as to think ourselves above the occasional practical joke.

Me and Jr. Bishop played an excellent practical joke on his cousin Billy Black back in the day. I snuck into this wild cave near our house (Tennessee cave country) and hid out in a large room with two boxes of candles. Jr. brought his cousin along a half hour later or so. He gave a loud shout to 'warn off the bats' (and to give me the heads up) so I had about 100 candles burning bright when they came into the room.

Poor Billy Black thought he stumbled into a satanic ritual. HE WANTED NO PART OF IT!!!

I jumped out and scared the crap out of him, lol! Then we drank some beer and stuff and continuned exploring the cave.

Cheers
DMT
LOL!


Partner polarwid


Jan 12, 2005, 9:10 PM
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Yes, this thread is about HOAXES & PRACTICAL JOKES...things that are proven, not questionable ascents by solo climbers (or ones who's partners died on the descent with the camera). COOK'S ascent of DENALI was definatively disproved...LANGFORD/STEVENSON has not been definatively disproved...nor has CESEN or MAESTRI!

A HOAX is something like the COOK ascent...

A PRACTICAL JOKE is something like the DOG, or the RIESENSTEIN PEAKS!


quiteatingmysteak


Jan 12, 2005, 10:23 PM
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roughling rating his climb 5.15b because it is not repeated when there are hundreds of .14's not repeated. :twisted:


brad84


Jan 12, 2005, 11:30 PM
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the wizard of trad; i mean come on, a #6 cheese grater?? all those ham sammiches???


jumpingrock


Jan 13, 2005, 7:33 PM
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Split Pillar falling down.


yourworstnightmare


Jan 17, 2005, 10:58 PM
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That rockclimbing.com users are climbers.


yourworstnightmare


Jan 17, 2005, 10:59 PM
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Okay, seriously...I think Cook's is because it was believed for so long and more people went to greater lengths to disprove it than any other hoax.


slavetogravity


Jan 18, 2005, 10:26 AM
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Climbing Magazine used to do a annual April Fools issue. Some of the pranks where much more subtle then others. Like the time they claimed that Yosemite Valley was purchased by the Access Society. But one year, probably the last time they published the April Fools issue. They published an article claiming the formation of a climbing society that was created to govern the actions of climbers in the US. Supposedly they where going to go and “properly equipt” all “irresponsibly” bolted climbs. Doing away with all those dangerous run outs. They where even going to establish enforceable rules governing how long a person could hang dog on a route. They toped it all of with a photo of a guy in a blue jump suite and construction helmet hanging on a route with a tape measure, measuring the distance between two bolts. In the next issue the editors hade to publish a public apology after getting some enraged letters to the editor, from people threatening to cancel their subscriptions.
I also recall the hoax perpetrated buy a very convincing troll claiming that the sprit pillar fell off the Grand Wall in Squamish. I went so far as to contact a friend in Squamish to see if it was true.


atg200


Jan 19, 2005, 10:02 PM
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you been there martha? been anywhere near there? strong words to call it a lie without being there yourself or doing anything even remotely like it.


Partner tradman


Jan 25, 2005, 8:23 AM
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Masetri claimed to have placed a ladder of bolts in the final pitches below the summit. To the best of my knowledge nobody's even got close to those pitches, so how can we see one way or the other?


cragmaster


Jan 25, 2005, 8:41 AM
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Via Ferratia, is it really climbing?


mattm


Jan 25, 2005, 9:12 AM
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ALong the lines of the split pillar, the rumor that the Boot Flake had fallen off el cap made a solid go on Supertopo a few years back - I wondered for a good 45 minutes if it was true until Link said he LOOKEd that morning and it was still there (or something like that)

sadly, someday they'll both be true like the Man in the Mountain taking the big ride


piton


Jan 25, 2005, 9:48 AM
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south platte brown book of lies


janjaf


Jan 28, 2005, 3:12 AM
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Mr. Steakeater: Claiming Fred Rouhlings Akira as a hoax is unfair, and uninformed as well, and it only reveal that you neither check ythe rumours you hear, on this site as well as many others, nor do you follow current sportsclimbing. :evil:
Climbing Mag did a very throroughly researched article on Fred Rouhling, that convinced me that he IS that good, and Akira is in the 5.15-league. Check it out yourself, and learn something: http://www.climbing.com/current/fredrouhling/


lightboi


Jan 30, 2005, 10:38 AM
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My vote is anything rated 5.9+.

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