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clam
Jun 16, 2002, 3:00 AM
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I am really handicapped when it comes to vertical face climbing since I do not have great hip turn out (I think that's what you call it). I would like work on developing this if possible to get my hips in closer to the wall. Does anyone know a safe way (stretching?) to develop greater hip turn out?
Thanks
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rickoldskool
Jun 16, 2002, 6:33 PM
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clam, what do you mean by "hip turnout"? There are a number of techniques that will place your hips closer to the wall. Front step, back step, drop knee, to name a few. Most of the techniques don't require any special amount of flexibility. I'm guessing you have more of a technique problem than a flexibility problem.
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jhwnewengland
Jun 16, 2002, 7:07 PM
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My guess is clam means he doesn't have much flexibility in his groin area (sorry), meaning he has trouble frog-legging up a face, with his toes pointed in opposite directions, away from his body. I'd suggest stretching that area heavily before climbing, sitting on the ground with the bottoms of your feet touching each other, and leaning forward toward your feet to get a good stretch in your groin. I am not particularly flexible either, and I find this helps a lot.
Sorry if I missed the meaning of "hip-turnout"...
Jan
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clam
Jun 16, 2002, 7:50 PM
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Jan, you got it. I do not have that flexibility in the groin area. I cannot get the toes pointed out in opposite directions from the body in that frog like position that really gets the hips in close. I see others able to really get in close using this technique. I do turn my hip to the wall, drop knee, etc. and this helps, but I think being able to develop greater flexibility the way you put it is what I am after. Maybe it's impossible for some of us. Like some can do the lotus position quite easily and others cannot or it takes some time before they can develop it. I'm hoping I can develop it and get more flexibility in the groin area. I think I got the term "hip turnout" from one of John Long's books.
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jhwnewengland
Jun 16, 2002, 8:08 PM
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yoga's supposed to help a lot with the flexibility as well, and a bunch of my climbing friends take yoga classes. Don't know if I could get into it, though. It seems awfully uncomfortable.
Stretching before you climb WILL help though, I'm sure of it.
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overlord
Jun 16, 2002, 8:59 PM
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and also strech AFTER climbing. and be careful wit streching because you can damage muscles and tendoms. and of course BE PATIENT!!
CLIMB ON
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climbinghoser
Jun 16, 2002, 10:55 PM
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It will help if you do a stretch that I call the "butterfly". Sit down on the ground and put the bottoms of your feet together. Then, with your hands holding your ankles, gently lean forward and push down on your knees with your elbows/forearms. If that doesn't make sense, let me know and I will try to give a more detailed description.
As always, stretching should be done only after muscles are warmed up. If you stretch cold muscles, you are more likely to injure yourself. A good way to warm up your leg muscles is to just run in place for a couple minutes, or better yet, take a short jog. Also, try stretching at least once a day. Your flexibility will improve.
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jt512
Jun 17, 2002, 6:07 PM
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Froggies: Lie face down and support your weight on your forearms so that your chest is off the ground, put your feet together and bend your knees to about 90 degrees and point your knees out to the sides so that your legs are in a frogleg position. Keep your feet on the floor. This will force your hips up (unless you already have great turnout). To work your turnout, push your hips down, feeling the stretch in the groin.
-Jay
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