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joshy8200
Feb 8, 2005, 7:37 PM
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To rap from either Yardarm, The Pulpit, or Grandfunk Railroad if I have a 60m rope will I need to trail another line? And will that second line need to be a 60m rope also?
And I'd like any feedback on what y'all think about these three routes. How serious are the runouts, are the cruxes more more difficult... I've been on The Pulpit, but not either of the other two. I'm really leaning toward doing Grandfunk Railroad because it looks like a sweet direct line.
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j_ung
Feb 8, 2005, 7:53 PM
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Yes on the second rope for all three routes. Expect typical Stone runouts on all three, though the hard stuff on The Pulpit is actually pretty well bolted by Stone standards. (Four bolts in one Stone Mountain pitch... Hell that's practically a sport route! :wink:)
If, however, you'd entertain a slight change in your itinerary, I suggest the first pitch of the Pulpit (one 60m rope will get you back to the ground), then do Grand Funk, and then do the first pitch of Mercury's lead. All three are around the same difficulty and go easiest to hardest in that order. Your rack for this entire day will consist of six quickdraws. :twisted: (Though you'll probably want a size 3 Camalot if you do Entrance Crack to get to Mercury's Lead.)
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joshy8200
Feb 8, 2005, 7:59 PM
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Yeah...I remember the Pulpit being pretty well bolted (I know it mentions it in the guidebook as being the 'best protected' route at Stone).
Does the 2nd line need to be 60m also?
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chill41
Feb 8, 2005, 8:04 PM
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I was at Stone a couple weeks ago and found that it is possible to rappel from the top to tree ledge with one 60m rope, if you start your rappel at the anchors at the top of the Great Arch. It requires doing 4 separate rappels and zig-zagging between rappel stations a bit, but it can be done.
Once you're at tree ledge, you can make it to the ground in 2 rappels by using a tree for an anchor, such as the one partway up Entrance Crack. Of course it's much easier to bring two 60m ropes, but it's good to know you won't have to walk off if you've only got one.
CHill
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joshy8200
Feb 8, 2005, 8:06 PM
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Ohh....as far as hitting all those routes up. Time is going to be a bit of a factor. I'm leaving after class Friday. I figure on having about 5 hours of daylight (figuring on 4 hours of climbing to keep from pushing it too much).
I'm really leaning toward Grand Funk Railroad...the second pitch doesn't have a bolt on it (or at least I don't think I remember seeing one in the guidebook) is it totally runout?
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joshy8200
Feb 8, 2005, 8:08 PM
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Ohh....as far as hitting all those routes up. Time is going to be a bit of a factor. I'm leaving after class Friday. I figure on having about 5 hours of daylight (figuring on 4 hours of climbing to keep from pushing it too much).
I'm really leaning toward Grand Funk Railroad...the second pitch doesn't have a bolt on it (or at least I don't think I remember seeing one in the guidebook) is it totally runout?
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brianinslc
Feb 8, 2005, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: I'm really leaning toward Grand Funk Railroad...the second pitch doesn't have a bolt on it (or at least I don't think I remember seeing one in the guidebook) is it totally runout?
I think there's at least 2 bolts. First one is about 15 or 20 feet off the belay, then the second is at or around a black water streak prior (or at) the traverse to the belay (I seem to recall at least. Kinda burned into my memory 'cause I made some joke about the second bolt and what a durn sports climb the route was, prior to clipping it, and a second later a foot blew and I almost fell!).
Do grand funk and walk off if need be. Great route.
-Brian in SLC
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jeremy11
Feb 8, 2005, 10:25 PM
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just curious for future reference what are these climbs rated?
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kilgymrats
Feb 8, 2005, 11:40 PM
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Here's my comment for ya'.
I would deff. take a second rope. It will make life MUCH easier for you. 2 60m ropes will be your best bet, however they don't have to be 60m...it just makes life easier.
Grand Funk does have 2 bolts on the 2nd pitch as soon as you clip the second that's when you traverse left. Also, it is possible to link P1&P2 with a 60m rope...which if time is an issue...this will help you speed up.
P3 has no bolts..and i'm not sure it has any place for natural pro., BUT it's super easy and there are quite a few horns you can sling (old skool style) if you feel freaked.
P4 also has no pro and no place to put pro in, however... again it's super easy with a lot of features and a nice hole in the dike about midway up the pitch that you can thread a quckdraw through (I think it would hold a fall).
I tried to link P3&P4 and came up about 15' short of the anchors...so...if you and your partner are comfe simal'ing.... these pitches can be linked. Remind you though...you have out 200' of rope and your only pro is 2 slung horns... All i'm saying is be sure you can do it. :)
P5 takes you to the huge block and I think there might be a bolt in that section..I can't remember..but that pitch is like 5.2. Again if you and your partner are comfee..once he reaches the dbl bolts on top of the flake (end of P5) have him clip the bolts and then you guys can just simal the rest of the route..it dorps WAY off...5.2/3 the whole way.
Those are my suggestions and insight. If your not farmiliar or comfortable with simal climbing I wouldn't recomend it....I was only offering the suggestion to help you speed things up. Have fun man!
~jOsh
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joshy8200
Feb 9, 2005, 3:23 AM
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Excellent. Yeah I wasn't worried too much about pro after the 2nd pitch. There's a picture of Burton Moomaw on the 2nd pitch in Shull's new photobook. The angle looks a little flattering for Stone and it looks like there he isn't clipped to any pro.
Thanks for the advice. I will have a 60m and 50m rope. I was just trying to travel light. I have thought about walking off the top too.....it'll just depend on how light and fast we want to travel.
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brianinslc
Feb 9, 2005, 3:25 PM
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In reply to: Grand Funk does have 2 bolts on the 2nd pitch as soon as you clip the second that's when you traverse left. Also, it is possible to link P1&P2 with a 60m rope...which if time is an issue...this will help you speed up.
Second pitch. Climber is just below the second bolt.
http://mtncommunity.org/...3fa833de1f3de79c.jpg
In reply to: P4 also has no pro and no place to put pro in, however... again it's super easy with a lot of features and a nice hole in the dike about midway up the pitch that you can thread a quckdraw through (I think it would hold a fall).
Best to use a shoulder length sling on that thread, methinks...(!)...
http://mtncommunity.org/...3fa7fba01c8509c2.jpg
If were me, and I was a tad short on time...I'd plan to just hike back to the car from the top. No reason to return to the base if you haven't got another route to do...and...its a neat hike down from the top too. Trail goes right back down to the parkin' lot.
Fun stuff either/any way. Great place.
Brian in SLC
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j_ung
Feb 9, 2005, 3:38 PM
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Well if the onsight wasn't blown before, it is now! :lol: :lol: :P
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joshy8200
Feb 9, 2005, 5:42 PM
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In reply to: Well if the onsight wasn't blown before, it is now! :lol: :lol: :P
Hahaha...no worries on spoiling the onsight. All this useful beta is much appreciated.
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joshy8200
Feb 9, 2005, 6:14 PM
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In reply to: just curious for future reference what are these climbs rated?
Yardarm 5.8-
The Pulpit 5.8
Grand Funk Railroad 5.9-
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