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puffypika
Feb 10, 2005, 4:30 PM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
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i will be taking a road trip to horseshoe canyon ranch in arkansas coming up in a month...i was wondering if anyone had any beta on which wall would be the best for sport/mix routes, somewhere between 5.10 - 5.12a...in the quide book i found routes all over creation on that ranch...and info would be helpful...thanks all
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greengoblin
Feb 10, 2005, 5:16 PM
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The North Forty has an abundance of routes for every climber, but is also the most crowded area at the ranch. Check out Crimp Scampi (5.10). There is a good warm up to the right and a 5.10 bolted line that easily goes on gear to left. Also, check out teh routes around Lavender Eye (5.12). This area is densely developed and it is possible to climb over 20 pitches in a day, if there aren't crowds.
Another area of interest is the Goat 'Shit' Cave. This area has pre-equiped routes over extremely steep rock- you climb out of a cave- ranging from 5.10-5.12. This place is great in the rain or during the winter since it is south facing. I recommend Austrian Ass Attack (5.12) Check out the petrified goat feces on the ground and look for the Indian art on the walls of the cave.
Have an awesome time.
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jackscoldsweat
Feb 10, 2005, 5:30 PM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2003
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So many to choose from...
Horse Shoes and Hand Grenades and it's neighboring climbs at the Far East Wall. A decent climb. Roman wall too....
For trad...shoot over to Confederate Cracks (WMA and Hack Berry) and Crack House Alley. Feel free to jump the fence for more crack. A few decent 8's and 9's are over there.
The problem with the north 40 is that so many other climbers go there because it is convenient in comparison to the other walls. The routes @ N40 aren't necessarily better than others. Each location has it's gems.
JCS
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onbelay_osu
Feb 10, 2005, 6:11 PM
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damn yea jack is right for trad go to confederate cracks, I like roman wall, but the north forty is where you will find everything!
BTW- since it is winter the cabins are $50 a night!!!!! wich is freakin' sweet
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onbelay_osu
Feb 10, 2005, 6:12 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2002
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damn yea jack is right for trad go to confederate cracks, I like roman wall, but the north forty is where you will find everything!
BTW- since it is winter the cabins are $50 a night!!!!! wich is freakin' sweet
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okiebuds
Feb 10, 2005, 6:46 PM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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i would not put to much faith in anything jack has to say........he falls alot on easy 5.8 trad routes......and he wears a funny red hat (ha, ha)
look up (learning to fly-5.10b) its good, electric glide is also quality (5.11b, 2p)
later bro's
rob
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jackscoldsweat
Feb 10, 2005, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2003
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In reply to: i would not put to much faith in anything jack has to say........he falls alot on easy 5.8 trad routes......and he wears a funny red hat (ha, ha) look up (learning to fly-5.10b) its good, electric glide is also quality (5.11b, 2p) later bro's rob
hahaha!!!
oh my head...my friggin head!!!
good times for sure! no...no...not really...
it is amazing what 4 weeks off the sharpe end will do to your head...
c ya later okiebuds..
JCS
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reprieve
Feb 12, 2005, 4:22 PM
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Registered: Jan 24, 2004
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puffypika, I live in CoMO as well. I have spent a lot of time down at HCR, and can give you more beta if you want it, although what these guys have said would give you a good tour. I wonder if I have met you before? My name's Kevin. Anyway, let me know if you want more beta or want to go climbing sometime. Peace.
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puffypika
Feb 15, 2005, 7:54 PM
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
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i dont know, i probably have though...are you a studnet at mu...if you are then what do you think about the climbing wall situation at the gym on campus? i was thinking about trying to get the climbing club there to start heading out to bouldering gardens for there tuesday meetings...so they could at least still climb, but anyway man, if you are up for a road trip down to hcr with us just text me back...we are leaving for the trip on March 31-April 3...i cannot wait man, spring, climbing, falling, learning...ooooh yea...
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