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joerockclimbs
Mar 19, 2003, 1:27 PM
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I have heard of various people going through classes to learn to lead. I just started leading last year and was considering hiring someone to teach me more. Any thoughts?
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ontario_guide
Mar 19, 2003, 1:36 PM
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Do it. A good instructor is experienced to know how to communicate what you need to know while making sure you are learning it safely the first time. There can be a big difference between knowing how to do something and knowing how to communicate the essentials of it effectively. Check with your local gym and they probably have someone locally they can recomended to you or there are a whole host of excellent climbing schools in North America that you can go to.
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cracklover
Mar 19, 2003, 1:47 PM
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I can't say what will be best for others but here's my experience: I read "Anchors", and "More Anchors" (John Long) from front to back, and then back to front. I seconded other folks leads. I spent hours practicing placing gear. I did a couple short leads and had experienced leaders critique my placements.
And then I took a one day lead climbing class with an AMGA certified guide. Even after all the learning I'd done on my own, he crammed my brain with so much information (he showed me on real rock in practical situations) that it took me over a season to fully integrate it all. Worth every penny.
But YMMV, of course.
GO
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caughtinside
Mar 19, 2003, 8:32 PM
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I'm with cracklover on this one. Read the books, practice setting pieces and building anchors on the ground. I guess it depends on your situation, but what I dig about trad leading is the adventure of it, and hiring someone would take some of that away. I led 15 pitches before I ever seconded, and I felt good. It was all 5.6 to 5.8, but I was loving it and felt those exciting tentacles of fear and a bit of nagging self doubt that forced me to make sure my placements were bomb.
Good luck!
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alpinerockfiend
Mar 22, 2003, 10:16 AM
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I learned how to place pro through years of following pitches, then placing it on toprope, and then finally leading my own. My mentor was a 25 year trad veteran, so I think I got some of the best instruction available. But I know that Exum Mountain Guides have some sort of class in placing protection. Their classes start in May: www.exumguides.com . I have a friend that took it, said it is pretty comprehensive. Covers proper way to set pro, equalizing of anchors, removing, etc...
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passthepitonspete
Mar 22, 2003, 1:40 PM
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Hiring yourself a Wall Doctor is the surest way to reach the summit, and have fun doing it.
You will learn the Better Way, how to minimize your Wank Factor, and how to lead, haul, and clean. You will learn the finer points of big wall leisure, and you will learn how to do stuff. Problems that once seemed overwhelming will evaporate when you figure stuff out.
You will learn to think analytically, and you will become a problem solver. You can get on the sharp end if you like, or you can make your Wall Doctor do it. And in all probability, you will have the time of your life, and can add a big wall to your tick list!
The fee you pay to your Wall Doctor will be returned to you many-fold in the stuff you learn. Why not earn your money in what you do best - your job - and invest your money in learning how to climb walls - which is what your Wall Doctor does best? The wise and discerning who have a decent source of income, but never the time to enjoy it, would be well-advised to consider a superb big wall adventure for a cost substantially less than that of your average "plain vanilla" holiday.
Can you picture yourself here?
http://www.gx.starvedrockoutfitters.com/...s/00000001/bivy2.JPG
[You]click the photo for a bigger view]
Note: Be sure to carefully scrutinize the credentials of anyone purporting to be a Wall Doctor - he or she could be a BWT in disguise!
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indigo_nite
Mar 24, 2003, 2:50 PM
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when very first deciding to lead, I wanted to take a class (instructor amga certified) to get supervised feedback while leading. I thought the pro's were that the instructor was very thorough (vs. an experienced friend might not provide as much detail) and the instructor was also up on some of the more recent trends in what's considered safe/efficient by guides.
one potential con could be the cost. try to find a group class to cut down the cost if you go that route. also maybe call up the school/guide and ask for specifics on what's covered in the class/day. it would be a bummer to pay lots of $ and not get your money's worth. good luck!
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onamission116
Mar 24, 2003, 4:16 PM
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I read several books on anchoring and leading and did fine, since I climbed with experience partners. But over the years I have taken trad, glacier and aid courses which all touched on the anchoring process. And I learned something new everytime, things that I had not thought of previously, and I studied the texts like a fiend! The point it that any time spent learning directly from a qualified source is never wasted, even if you are already familiar with the material. Yes it's expensive, yes many of us climbers are poor. Yes it is worth it! :D Have fun!
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piton
Mar 25, 2003, 5:56 AM
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great idea! check into Diamond sports www.gunksguide.com
phone
800-776-2577
845-255-1897
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simzboardr
Mar 31, 2003, 4:31 PM
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Hey man, not guide needed. Read the books and practice. Ive been trad climbing for about three years now and i taught myself every step of the way. Just test your gear and talk to people when your up there. Start with easy 5.2s or so and work your way up, no top rope leading needed. Have fun and be safe
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dirtineye
Apr 4, 2003, 7:46 PM
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Like most of the others, I fully recommend the amga guide taught class.
Many climbers have lived for years by luck, "experienced" climbers do some really dumb things and think it is good.
The best gear placing I have seen was by an amga dude.
By all means read the books, practice on the ground, hang on what you set too.
Learn your passive pro first, and don't think cams are magic, they might be the hardest to set right.
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janeothejungle
Apr 5, 2003, 12:05 PM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2003
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Drumming up a little business for the summer, pete?
I wonder, pray tell, at what cost the good doctor could be rented? Perhaps an hourly fee, or is it dependent upon the learning curve??
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clymber
May 17, 2003, 6:29 PM
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I have been trad climbing for years and before I started to trad climb i followed so many times I couldnt even tell you. Before I started to trad lead I took a class and it helped some and now after leading for awhile I took another trad class this weekend and I have to say it was great. I had someone with a hell of alot more experince then myself or my partners tell me if my placements were good and what I can do differently or better. Was it worth it... For me hell ya it was. Not only did I get reassured about my placement but I had a great time and did routes I never have done before. I went thru Diamond Sports in the Gunks and was instructed by Sue. Shes a great person and great guide/teacher
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tahquitztwo
May 17, 2003, 8:26 PM
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Registered: May 31, 2002
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I've climbed with very good climbing friends for years and I learned a lot from them but I think I agree most with the AMGA guide suggestion...they have to go through a hell of a lot to reach that certification and they know all the latest on anchors, etc. They fill you up with a lot to absorb but it is definitely worth every penny. Just be sure the guide you get is the "certified one"....some places will schedule you a guide but they're not AMGA certified.
All of the other suggestions as well help....follow a lot, practice really easy stuff and read and read some more and question everything til you can do it in your sleep.
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