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katydid
Jul 21, 2004, 11:51 AM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2002
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In the guidebook, I was reading that Barad Dur goes at 5.9 A2. Does anyone know if it's scarred-up enough to actually do it clean, or should we bring ye olde pins?
Thanks,
k.
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katydid
Jul 22, 2004, 8:08 AM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2002
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Bump -- Has nobody done this route recently? (Guess not.)
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layedback
Nov 20, 2006, 1:29 PM
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Registered: Nov 29, 2005
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I have done the route a couple of times.
You can do aid moves through parts of the two crux pitches, but you better be a solid 5.10+ trad leader and be competent mixing up the aid and free. The route is a serius undertaking, big run outs, poor rock "sections", "difficult" to wrap after the 4th pitch, and a unprotedted 5th class "hike" to the top.
This year there was around 12 (?) bolts added including some anchor bolts. It is in better shape then it has ever been in...
Bring a pair of assenders for the follower and leader if either plans of coming off on the crux pitch. If you come off you will need to jug up the rope to get back on route.
It's an adventure route.
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jchristo511
Jun 1, 2008, 4:05 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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hey katydid ,
Barad Dur is an awesome adventure route period .If
you're into adventure and you are a competent all
around 5.10 climber go for it ! My brother and I did
the 1st free ascent of it in 1983 @ 5.11a/b .I've since
whittled the time from ground to summit down to 3 hr
6min.all free .Also I've done this route 30 times , it's
that good . there is funky rock only on the 2nd pitch
but if you're kind to it ,it will stay put .If you want
" The Beta " get in touch . email me at
Jchristo.christopher@gmail.com ciao Christo
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