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vaness
Mar 9, 2002, 4:37 PM
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When you guys are in competitions how do you "memorize" the routes your going to climb before you climb them? Some competitions they let you look at the route for a few minutes berofe you climb it, and you can draw it and stuff like that. Does anyone use this time? Is it helpfull to you?
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pianomahnn
Mar 9, 2002, 8:10 PM
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I don't really do that.
I just get up and climb, decide what to when I get there.
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vaness
Mar 10, 2002, 11:45 AM
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Not to sound rude but woundnt that waist time? I mean wouldnt you rather know what your going to do before you get there instead of waisting time and energy?
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hardcoredana
Mar 10, 2002, 2:29 PM
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Here's a tip that was given to me by a very good climber. When you read a route, you don't have to remember every detail of the sequence. Instead, only remember the one or two moves that might be tricky or difficult to read when you are on the route. For instance, of there is a bump, or a match, I look at the holds, and say, "Okay, I have to remember to match on the blue sloper that looks like jelly bean." It also helps to remember where the cross-throughs are, so that you don't screw up the sequence in those places.
You don't have to remember everything, you just have to remember the tricky spots where you might screw up the sequence.
Good Luck!
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vaness
Mar 10, 2002, 2:35 PM
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thanks
i already made that mistake
but it wasnt at a competition...we were pratciceing route reading with the team im on and i tried to memorize the whole route instead of remembering the important parts
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iclimb512s
Mar 10, 2002, 4:52 PM
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there is this awsome climber that told me a bunch of cool stuff to remember.
1) before you do it, whatch a bunch of other people try it first. remember, you have plenty of time.
2) rest for about 20 minutes after your climb.
and some other stuff thats pretty irrelevant to this topic. but these two are very important. By watching a bunch of other people do/try it, you begin to memerize everything, weather you mean to o not. then when you go to try the climb, your body knows exactly what to do to do the climb right.
understand
Grant
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pianomahnn
Mar 10, 2002, 9:15 PM
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vaness,
Things tend to be a lot more different when you're right at it, then when you're on the ground.
And my way of climbing is already efficient enough. I never stop to chalk, and I never stop to rest. Hell, I don't really like to stop to think about what to do. I just do it. Thinking is for that school thing. I'm not in school when I climb.
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orestes1724
Mar 11, 2002, 7:23 PM
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iclimb512s
at onsight compititions you cant watch other people try it. its against the rules.
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pianomahnn
Mar 11, 2002, 9:24 PM
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Kinda...sort of...
Most onsite comps will have the finals routes as onsite, but have the normal routes as onsite/flash format.
It would seem to be that it would be rather funky/hard/odd/complicated to run an entire competition as onsite.
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need_for_climbing
Mar 13, 2002, 8:09 PM
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Iclimb512 Most Competition u will only be given a few minutes to read your routes at that time nobody is allowed to climb. Then u will head back to an isolation zone where u r not allowed to exit that zone to watch how other pple climb. Or even to get water its against the rulez. So the tips that climber gave u was false.
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vaness
Mar 14, 2002, 12:51 PM
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piano...
i acctully found that that what you said was true. although sometimes it does help to look at the route and draw it and stuff first sometimnge you should just climb it because when you draw it you can get it wrong. jast week i had a simple layback written on my drawing and thrn i got to the route and the hold for the layback and the foot holds were about a foot arart and the next hold wes a few feet away. it was eaiser to not layback...you got to get the distance oh the holds ...it makes a really big difference
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maddie
Mar 15, 2002, 5:33 PM
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i look at it but dont memorise it. Dont think, just climb.
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jcclimber
Mar 20, 2002, 11:29 AM
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Follow Hardcoredana's advice. Remember the possible crux areas, and places where a natural move might not be a right move!
jake out
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