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clymberboy
Jul 5, 2001, 6:41 AM
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its pretty simple. the grading system that you are referring to is known as the yosemite decimal system, primarily used in the US (europs uses a slightly different system). the decimal system is a means of rating a climb's difficulty. here's a quick reference . . .
1.0 ==> more less means walking on a flat & level surface
2.0 ==> going up a flat, but inlined surface
3.0 ==> entering the realm of scrambling, goin up an incline over a rough/rocky terrain, not quite neccessitating the use of your hands
4.0 ==> tougher scrambling requiring the use of hands to maintain balance & forward progression
5.0 ==> rock climbing, nearing vertivcal inclination & use of hands a must. from here it is further broken down into subcategories by incrementing the decimal place, i.e 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, . . ., 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, 5.13, 5.14, 5.15? the higher you go, the more difficult the climb. these are often further broken down by adding on a + or -, or a letter after the decimal grade. your average joe run of the mill climber probably typically climbs within the range from 5.6 to 5.10. anything below that is usually pretty easy & not challenging, anything above becomes increasingly more difficult, requireing honed technical skills.
of course, the rating system is completely subjective, & often somewhat varies from locale to locale.
hope this helps.
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pollux
Nov 1, 2001, 7:09 PM
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How about bouldering grade?
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rck_climber
Nov 1, 2001, 7:13 PM
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The bouldering grade is based on the "Hueco" scale or "V-Scale". It takes different things into account than does the YDS, and therefore, is a little tough to equate directly to a YDS rating, but a rough estimate is laid out here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/rankingguide.php
Hope this helps.
Mick
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pollux
Nov 2, 2001, 12:19 PM
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is it based on the dificulty of moves? I know it is all subjective, but is there a general guideline? I hit the gym yesterday and I couldn't get past this one sloper on a route that was ranked low yet I am able to climb harder ones no prob. Maybe it is just me that can't do slopers or something but it was rather difficult to me wehreas harder ranked ones were a breeze.
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rck_climber
Nov 2, 2001, 12:21 PM
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Couldn't think of a better way to explain it, so here's some info I found off another site:
Hueco Tanks "V" Scale - Developed in the US, the "V" Scale has slowly been adopted by climbers at bouldering areas throughout the world. This system was developed to describe the overall difficulty of a boulder problem. Unlike the rating of a roped climb which uses the single hardest move to establish its grade, the "V" scale takes every single move in to consideration.
Hope this helps.
Mick
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rrrADAM
Nov 2, 2001, 12:26 PM
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You left out a class...
6.0 is Aid climbing, having to use direct aid to ascend.
Where as 5.0 is technical free climbing, just hands and feet provide upward movement, all gear is just for protection.
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addiroids
Nov 2, 2001, 12:35 PM
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A little history for you guys:
The decimal system referred to above began as the Wilts-Sierra Decimal System at Tahquitz rock and was referred to as the Tahquitz Decimal System. As the center of climbing moved from Tahquitz in Southern Cali, to Yosemite, it became known as the YDS. The standard of these climbs are set at Tahquitz, and have been done for many years. Unfortunately, some people have never climbed at Tahquitz, so they don't have that "standard" in their minds when they are grading climbs. A 5.9 is the grading of a climb of certain difficulty climbed onsight, and on lead. If you want to know what that difficulty is, go climb Open Book, Whodunit, The Illegitimate, or Consolation on Tahquitz.
On a side note: Certain climbs which have bolts every 4 feet (called sport climbs) are given a rating which is much higher than their actual difficulty. This is to boost the ego of those who climb these routes and to allow them go get free gear from climbing companies.
TRADitionally yours,
Addiroids
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jds100
Nov 2, 2001, 2:02 PM
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The comments above, about sport climbs and sport climbers, were made to boost the ego of a climbing neophyte who thinks he's got all the answers, and knows all the history.
Anyone who cares to do the research would find that NOT all climbs that are protected by bolts, whether they were established decades ago or are recent, including those in Patagoina, Italy, Baffin Island, Greenland, as well as the U.S., are protected every four feet; that claim is a typically zealous misstatement. There are areas and there are people who abuse the idea of bolted protection, but it's narrow-minded ignorance to make such a broad generalization.
The topics of bolted protection, bolt chopping, sport climbing, etc. have been discussed at length on this website; any interested party may search the forums using key words and see the wide ranging opinions and thoughts. Some of them are well thought out, and based on a lot of experience. Others are not.
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diegow
Nov 11, 2001, 9:39 AM
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they mean the difficulty of the rute they go from 5.7 to 5.15a
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talons05
Nov 11, 2001, 9:46 AM
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Hey Addiroids,
That's pretty weak, man. I climb mostly trad in the 5.8-5.10 range and that's about it. I don't climb sport. Still, I don't go around bashing people who do. Who cares? It's not about the grades anyway. If you don't like sport climbing, then don't do it. It's easy. I think you should be a little more respectful to your fellow climbers though.
AW
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rrrADAM
Nov 11, 2001, 12:59 PM
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A little more history...
The TDS now known as the YDS was developed by Royal Robbins. He was the FA of America's 1rst 5.9,
Open Book at Tahquitz Rock, Ca., as well as being credited with numerous FAs of classic El Capitan Big Wall Routes. He is also the inventor of the first dedicated climbing shoe.
He should definately be recognized in the Pro Athlete Feature of RC.com, someone should step up and sponsor him in this Feature.
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beyond_gravity
Jan 4, 2002, 12:52 PM
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how come there isn't a metric, Base 10 climbing system?
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treyr
Jan 4, 2002, 4:47 PM
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Read climbing grades and they mean how hard a climb is
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airscape
Jan 4, 2002, 5:00 PM
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There is a base 10 system, WE USE IT!!!
IT's the Australian rating system, we use it here in south africa aswell.
Just alittle question, what the is with that guy that does not have a name, he just post were he wants, but he is nameless???
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matt
Jan 4, 2002, 5:14 PM
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That seems to be a user whose account was deleted. His post remains, but the name does not.
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discostu
Mar 2, 2002, 7:34 PM
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Ha! my firs t5.10 at Hoosier Hights, IN-Oh what a beautiful buzz...what a beautiful buzz...
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apollodorus
Mar 2, 2002, 9:22 PM
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YDS ratings for aid climbing uses the letters A or C followed by a number (0-5) and sometimes a + or -.
For example: A3, A4-, A5+, AO, C2, C3- etc.
Here is the YDS system for aid climbing:
http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Ratings.html
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sandergrootoonk
Mar 14, 2002, 3:03 AM
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OKay, so the grades are explained in the Grade Chart. Now I have some problems figuring out what Type S/B/A/I/X/M means..
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apollodorus
Mar 14, 2002, 3:36 AM
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5.9 means that if you lead it, you are not a Newbie anymore. OK, if you lead 5.8, you're not a Newbie. Now that I think some more, if you lead 5.7 that's run out, you're not a Newbie. Years ago, I would include if you do a long 5.6, but some jerk trundled the rotten log on the Royal Arches, so, you have to climb 5.7 to finish that Not-A-Newbie climb.
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lyquidfyr
Mar 27, 2002, 7:06 PM
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Yes, i would have to agree with the other responces...it is about the level of difficulty. Anything smaller than a 5.0 is just a waste of time.
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crazydawg
Jun 2, 2002, 5:24 PM
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Amen to that Talons, Amen
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bahamut
May 9, 2003, 1:46 PM
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I am a just beginning Rock Climber and I was looking at the grade charts. While I know what S, B, and A mean, what does I, X, and M mean? :?: :)
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vertical_reality
May 15, 2003, 6:19 AM
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By looking at the chart, I'd guess that "I" referrs to ice, and "X" referrs to mixed ice... not sure what "M" means.
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corpse
May 15, 2003, 7:07 AM
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I know it's tougher to "explain" - but in all the rating, can't anyone ever "explain" in more detail.. What I mean is this..
(purely example as I don't know much about REAL grades)
"a 5.9 in crack climbing require full-hand jams, often relatively easy and not strenuous for the recreational climber. Usually vertical or slabby in angle and seldomly not overhung; whereas a 5.10 crack may introduce the same crack but overhung"..
Again, just an example description.. I know it's harder to explain like this - but maybe more helpful.. Like hell, whats the diff between a 5.11d and 5.12a.. Like, 2-figer pockets vs 1-finger pockets? an extra 5 degrees in overhanging angle?
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dingus
May 15, 2003, 7:35 AM
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In reply to: A little history for you guys: Certain climbs which have bolts every 4 feet (called sport climbs) are given a rating which is much higher than their actual difficulty. This is to boost the ego of those who climb these routes and to allow them go get free gear from climbing companies.
Hey addiroids, got a traditional question for you,
In your sprayfile, oops, I mean PROfile, you list the edge as one of your recent accomplishments.
Hehe. Did you lead it?
DMT
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