Scarpa Vision

On my second pair of these; sized moderately tight (size 40 - this is comparable to size 8.5 in Anasazis and 39.5 in Katanas; I typically wear US size 10 for running shoes)

I use this shoe for bouldering and absolutely love it. Once broken in, I can feel features in the rock very well, yet the shoe retains enough stiffness to edge well. The pointy toe and sensitivity of the shoe provides a lot of confidence, as you know whether or not you have good purchase on a hold. Lace the shoe tightly, and it conforms perfectly to my feet (no dead space anywhere) and edges powerfully. Lace the shoe up with moderate tension and it becomes soft enough to smear well and pull nicely on steep rock.

Only complaint is the heel rand: once broken in, there's not enough tension in this rand, and the heel tends to pop off during smeary heel hooks.

The single greatest purchas I have made. Just the right amount of down turn to stay strong and be able to wear all day, but not so much as to permanently warp your foot like the Booster. Amazing fit in the heal and around the foot. I bought them a little bit uncomfortably tight, it didn't take long for them to stretch out a little. I'd agree with some of the other reviews that they stretch about a half size so I wouldn't size down very much. I wear a 43 La Sportiva and a 42 in these. Now that they're stretched, they are without a doubt the most comfortable, high performing shoe I have ever had.

Narrow shoe that loosens up after a while. Although they started out too painful to wear for more than one route, by the time they needed a resole, my Visions were big enough to climb all day in. They fit my foot great. My only complaints would be that the rubber isn't Stealth -- the resole will fix that -- and that I can't pull super hard with the heel. I find it good enough for most climbing, however.

Purchased size 40 pair with the old Vibram rubber (XS-V) for about $55. If the new Vibram rubber outperforms the old, then this shoe is absolutely brilliant if it fits well your foot. Edges very well, but maintains sensitivity. This combination results from a down-turned fore-section and off-set toe (the down-turn compensates for lack of stiffness in the toe) Fit is narrow throughout. Excellent on pockets, smears, small edges, and any holds on overhanging rock. Also excellent in thin cracks (haven't yet tried the shoe in wider cracks)

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Update: heel seam tore after scumming up a fin, rubber peeled back. Scarpa in Boulder, CO encouraged me to send in the shoe for repair, told me that it would take a little over a week, and that if I glued it myself the shoe would no longer be under warranty. So I sent them in. Ruined half my climbing season, since I never saw them for another 6 - 7 weeks. Then the repairs staff had nerve to say the seam appeared to have been torn with a flat-head screw driver. To me, it was obvious that not enough glue had been applied between the leather and rubber, such that a bubble had formed between the rubber and leather. Great shoe, slightly botched craftsmanship, but ABSOLUTELY AWFUL SERVICE from Scrapa in Boulder.

I have the vision velcro shoes, they're simply great. They hold on to the smallest bump in the rock