Pacific ISO Cold Forged Doval Carabiner

Great clipping, and VERY rope friendly! favorite non-locking biner on my rack!

As others have said, they're light, strong, rope friendly, and cheap. I just marked all of mine with tape on the top of the spine (nose end), so finding the nose is no problem. I use these for racking, and both ends of my trad draws and enjoy being able to reverse and oppose them easily in the absence of a locker.

At only 37g and about $6.95 its hard to beat these for a cheap lightweight biner. I use them everywhere I would use mine for racking nuts and hexes, for cams and tricams I'd be much more likely to rack with JC's because the Dovals have that damn tendency to rotate and then you can't tell which end the nose is on.

The Doval is an average lightweight biner. The gate gets soft very quickly, and the shape of the biner lends itself to crossloading. There are better choices in the lightweight biner department these days, though these are a bargain.

Omega Pac does good work. This is yet another example of their excellent craftsmanship. However, as noted by others, there IS room for improvement. Conversely, I actually prefer that the biner rolls over easily. It facilitates racking pro. I carry them with the gate up and in, when re-racking at the belay I just roll them over and they are oriented (down and out) for a quick re-racking. However, for some reason I seem to have a problem with dropping these things. I suspect it has to do with the conformation of the basket; it's not very deep, almost ramp-like... Make sure that your gear loops/sling has cleared the gate before you release the biner.