The was my first shoe bought after reading a zillion reviews. It gets consistently high ratings. I'm in my second year of climbing; gym climb about 3 times a week and outdoor climb at least once a month in the spring / summer. Have used this shoe at Yosemite, Ft. Bragg (beach), and bouldering and climbing in the Sierras and on backcountry trips. I'm on my second set of rubber ... sent them to somone in Boulder, CO for rubber (nice job). This shoe is so comfortable I can wear it all day. I don't any complaints about its performance either. Some folks mention that the red dye comes off on your feet. This is true but never bothered me. For me a comfortable shoe means I'm going to have a good time climbing because I won't be thinking about anything else. Also, for my kids, getting them a comfortable shoe (Evolve Defy (my oldest son) or my daughter (who will wear the coyotes) makes all the difference in their enjoyment of the sport. With all the manufacturers changing shoes; this is one shoe that's been around a while and you can bet that's because it sells ... and because it matches performance and comfort very well.

They were mine. And as a first shoe, they're terrific. Tight but comfy so that you can get used to the tightness. Sticky on the smear and for those foot placements that aren't quite as balanced as they will be once you're more experienced. But they edge poorly. The toe-crunch is not the best. And as they stretch (which they will) they can become a bit sloppy on your foot. Do get it as your "first shoe." It'll be good for that. But know, as you do, that your ability will grow out of it.

1)Great for Smearing
2)Great first time shoe
Only gripe is the red bleeds into your foot

Stays comfortable for hours. Stretches to street-shoe size (bought my street shoe size and after just a few uses was loving the feel). Heel fits very loose (annoying for hooking since it tends to slide... I have no idea whose heel is shaped like this but they're not human). The rand is great, but the sole peels away and wears a bit too rapidly for my expectations. The rubber is awesome in other ways, and I'll definitely have them re-soled with the same stuff. Desert bat hit it exactly -- they aren't stiff and edging isn't perfect, however what you give up there you get like crazy for smearing. Don't get these if you specialize in crack climbing or have to toe in a lot. Do get these for great gym climbing and as a shoe that eventually becomes slipper-like. The laces have never broken or torn out of the eyelets, and the leather is still in great shape after a few hundred climbs. There's lots to like about these grippy smeary all-arounders.

Got a pair as my first shoe, sized a 10 (I'm normally a 10.5-11). 10 months later they are a perfect fit and amazingly comfortable, but I wore a hole right through the sole, just below my big toe. I have pretty normal feet and I do 90% gym climbing, so this is disappointing. performance wise they have been pretty good, but after a year of climbing I find them starting to hold me back. I would recommend them to any beginner, but I wouldn't buy it again now that I'm climbing harder routes and going outside more.