Used and Abused
Review by: punk_rocker333, 2007-08-14
Time to write about these things. I just got out of living in Yosemite Valley for three months and used the hell out of these things and have used them for about nine months. These shoes are made for people with narrow feet and mortons toe, if you have it. I do not, but found the symetrical toe to work fine and not hinder my climbing. I have a B width forefoot and an A width heel with a very high arch. The heel is a tiny bit loose but nothing too noticeable and it didn't kill my performance, even with super sweaty feet. I also bought a size 10, half a size smaller than my street shoe, but these run a bit large. I didn't want them too tight as I enjoy long routes and never take my shoes off between pitches, half a size down was a good compromise. For the first half a year I used these as gym/occasional cragging shoe. The rubber is quite sticky and wore quick in the gym, and was a little stiff for my preference. I don't think these are an ideal gym climbing shoe, go for something softer. I got them resoled by Yosemite Bum just before heading off this summer, where they got their real use. For face climbing, I felt these shoes a little lacking in steep terrain and their edging ability. I wear a size 9, 5.ten Galileo for thin face and there is no comparison between the Demortos and those shoes. The demortos perform well on slab and are a good crack shoe, where I used them them the most. They stick well in finger cracks where you can barely get the toe in and can smear around the outside of the crack well. I've worn holes through the outside rand on the far side of each foot from jamming in fist and wider crack, telling me that the rands may be a little weak and don't last long for this type of climbing, but what shoe does? They are soft enough to conform to the crack well, but stiff enough to give good support without killing your feet during sustained jamming, a very good mix. Overall, I would say that the Demorto is the best all around shoe I've had in regards to both fit and performance. The pair I have will not be able to be resoled again due to the holes in the rand that go all the way through the synthetic material, but they served me well for the abuse I put them through. I would recomend them as an all around shoe.
DISCLAIMER: These shoes do not breath well. I wore them for a week straight at Red Rocks, NV and they stank pretty bad. I got complaints from my partners all week. I washed them thoroughly with soap and water and this solved the problem for a short while. This summer the shoes began to smell horrid. My partners would walk away and complain when I took off and put on my shoes, saying they couldn't stand the stench. I washed them just yesterday very heavily with soap and water and scrubbed the hell out of them (~30 minutes), then let them dry overnight with newspaper stuffed in them. They still stink quite bad so I stuffed drier sheets in them to relieve the problem, we'll see how that works. I've never had problems with smelly shoes until this pair. My friend owns a pair of Evolv slippers made of the same material and he complains about the stench and lack of breathability as well. Something to consider with these shoes.