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Reviews by JAB (9)

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Steelkar Express (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 2.50/5 Average Rating : 2.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Quickdraws

Not recommended 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: JAB, 2008-10-09


These are really average. The gate action is poor and the nose snags on everything.


Cinch Belay Device popular Average Rating = 4.24/5 Average Rating : 4.24/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Great for sport climbing 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: JAB, 2008-10-09


The best thing about the Cinch is that it is extremely easy to feed rope to the leader, which is a big difference on hard leads. No risk of getting short-roped!

Compared to the GriGri, it has two other advantages: it works with thinner ropes, and it is smaller and lighter. Lowering is not as smooth as with the GriGri, but not really a problem either.


MaxCams™ (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.07/5 Average Rating : 4.07/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Problem with walking 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: JAB, 2008-10-09


I have been using 3 of the smaller max cams for 2 years, and have noticed that they have a bad tendency to walk. This led to one walking into a crack and getting so stuck I couldn't remove it. The sling on the cam should always be extended, and then clipped to another sling or a quickdraw.

They are otherwise well made and very easy to handle. I have taken a couple of hard falls on them with no problems.


ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Almost perfect 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: JAB, 2008-08-05


This is a great all-round device. I belay seconds a lot, and would never switch to any device that didn't have the autoblock function. However, I have two small criticisms. First, it is a bit heavy and bulky, and second, it could have even more friction. I never use the normal friction mode for belaying, and even rappell on the high-friction mode if rappelling on thin ropes.


Oxygen Clean-Lock - Straight gate (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Straight Gates and Regular D's

Good but heavy 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: JAB, 2008-08-05


These are very good draws, but after I bought some Heliums I finally noticed how heavy they are.

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