Comfortable performance shoe
Review by: Vakoilija, 2013-03-08
First I have to say: these are the most luxurious feeling shoes I have used. The suede is so smooth and soft! Build quality is solid as well.
My typical shoe size ranges between 41 and 42 Euro size. I bought Instincts in size 39,5, which isa bit smaller than my La Sportiva Miura lace-up in size 38,5. The ball of my foot is wide, causing a pressure point on the outer edge of my foor with most climbing shoes. Instincts are wide enough for my foot. With the laces I can still cinch the rest of the shoe very tight. The whole shoe feels very secure even unlaced. I might have to try out Instinct slipper too!
The heel tension is quite strong, as one would expect from a performance shoe. You can really feel the pressure building up on your toes when you tip toe on small holds. Some reviewers have said Instinct can be worn in bigger size and it would still perform. I can't tell, as 39,5 is the only size I have used. I have to admit size 40 might have been better for a more all-around fit. It must the way in which these shoes transform the pressure to where it's needed. Clever engineering with the insole and tensioning system, Mr. Mariacher!
Despite being unlined leather, these shoes hold their shape. The toebox is actually made of lorica. There's also a lot of rubber on the toe and heel keeping the shape unchanged. Expect about the same amount of stretch as with lined leather shoes.
Instinct's heel reminds me of Miura's classic shape. Great fit for me, even though there are a tiny bit of extra room on the sides. I have quite narrow heel.
Concerning performance, these shoes are a mixed bag. I have used better edging shoes, better smearing shoes and shoes that toehook better. What is really weird I still feel very confident on all kind of holds when wearing Instincts. My new favourite hold with these Scarpas is a glassy sloper! This is the universal performance shoe!