Skip to Content

Gear : Reviews

Reviews by ajkclay (4)

ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

ATC-Guide 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: ajkclay, 2009-07-15

Overall I like the features of the atc-guide, however I'm aware these are not unique to the BD product.

I've decided not to discuss the features as such, but pro's and cons of what I've found:

Pro's. It's not heavy, sure it is a little heavier than atc style devices without the autoblock feature, but it's not really an issue. Friction side works very well. Low friction side is good for long raps on two ropes.

Cons: It sticks when feeding quick or using thicker ropes on lead or bringing up a second; in fact on a recent trip using a Mammut Flash I found it near impossible to belay on autoblock. By the end of a two day trip with 340m of climbing, which is not much really, I was over it. By contrast, using my Beal edlinger was no problem at all. I'm unsure whether this was a function of rope brand or diameter, but it's a consideration.

Would I buy one again? If it was the only one of its type yes. But if I had to replace it I'd consider the Reverso.

The Self-Coached Climber (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.88/5 Average Rating : 4.88/5

In: Gear: Media: Instructional Books

The Self-Coached Climber 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: ajkclay, 2007-10-17

This is quite simply the only book you wil ever need to purchase on climbing performance. The information is exhaustive and impressive, useful for all climbers from beginners right through to advanced.

Texts of this quality in most subjects usually cost five times as much! The best value text I have ever bought!

Basic Multipurpose Ascender (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.89/5 Average Rating : 3.89/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Ascenders

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: ajkclay, 2005-05-03

Easy to use, hard to muck up, the Basic is a good reliable self-belay device.

Would have rated a 5 if it didn't lock a little too much after loading.

Stopper Nuts (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.45/5 Average Rating : 4.45/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Nuts and Stoppers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: ajkclay, 2004-05-23

Can't imagine climbing without my BD stoppers! They place and remove well, and are so secure - love 'em!