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Reviews by ajn (2)


Solution Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Excellent bouldering shoe 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: ajn, 2009-07-31


I bought this shoe after retiring my Mammut Goblins. I needed improved heel and toe hooking performance. My choices were either the Miura VS, Millet Replikan and the Solutions. Miura VS felt more like an overall climbing shoe. The Replikan didn't fit me properly. The Solutions felt like no other shoe I've fitted to date: the initial feeling was that I have rubber socks on my feet. The fit was super-tight but comfortable. Whereas other climbing shoes squeeze some of your toes, these squeeze all of them, quite uniformly. The bouldering performance is awesome, but these are not, in my opinion, suited for slabs. They are too downturned for smearing, and the bottom shape offers too little friction for it anyway. My rating is based entirely on the bouldering performance, since that's what this shoe is designed for. As a more all-around shoe, I'd recommend the Miura VS. Note about the sizes: I have (EU) size 40 Miuras, 40 Miura VSs (fitted at the shop), but size 39 Solutions.


Goblin (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro

Mammut Goblins 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: ajn, 2008-09-03


I bought these a while ago when looking at an upgrade from La Sportiva Miuras. Initially I was looking at Miura VS's but these had pretty similar specs and were 30€ cheaper. My Goblins had Vibram XSV rubber, so Mammut has clearly done a wise upgrade. I compared the grip to my resoled Miuras (now equipped with Stealth Onyxx) and honestly I can't tell any difference. The Goblins are way more sensitive than Miuras, so wearing the Miuras after the Goblins feels like having combat boots on. Besides that, the inner lining is much more comfortable on the Goblins. I can't comapre these to Miura VS's but I found the upgrade I was looking for and haven't had any second thoughts. Highly recommended!

Update: I used this shoe intensively for 6 months, after which two things happened: the heel rubber came off from sideways heel hooking, and the shoes became really smelly (could be a common thing with lined shoes in general, since none of my (unlined) La Sportivas smell at all). They were great gym shoes, not so hot outdoors. I'll downgrade my rating due to the short lifetime of the heel hook. I'll probably still use them if I compete somewhere indoors, where heel hooking is not required. Toe hooks never worked them in the first place. Since semi-retiring these I went for La Sportiva Solutions and they've performed flawlessly!