powerful yet nicely soft
Review by: brachialis, 2009-01-04
On my second pair of these; sized moderately tight (size 40 - this is comparable to size 8.5 in Anasazis and 39.5 in Katanas; I typically wear US size 10 for running shoes)
I use this shoe for bouldering and absolutely love it. Once broken in, I can feel features in the rock very well, yet the shoe retains enough stiffness to edge well. The pointy toe and sensitivity of the shoe provides a lot of confidence, as you know whether or not you have good purchase on a hold. Lace the shoe tightly, and it conforms perfectly to my feet (no dead space anywhere) and edges powerfully. Lace the shoe up with moderate tension and it becomes soft enough to smear well and pull nicely on steep rock.
Only complaint is the heel rand: once broken in, there's not enough tension in this rand, and the heel tends to pop off during smeary heel hooks.