Skip to Content

Gear : Reviews

Reviews by caughtinside (12)

> >|

Xenon Lite Wiregate Carabiner Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

Nice biner but not durable 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: caughtinside, 2010-12-03

Maybe durable isn't the right word for it... I bought 18 of these 6 months ago, and already two of them have funked sticky gates. It's too bad, these were my favorites. They are way lightweight, have a protected nose, and clip well. I don't like the superflys and the moses because the nose isn't protected, and these were lighter than the neutrinos, my old standby. Love this biner but it just doesn't hold up.

Bionic Mythos HMS Screwgate Carabiner Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Ok. 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: caughtinside, 2010-07-13

Nice biner, lightweight. The downside is that it won't last long for belaying and rapping since it's I beam construction will put a sharp edge on once it wears down. Probably go back to a nice round stock biner after this one. Shape does very poorly with a grigri, crossloads more often.

Rap Hangers (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 2.20/5 Average Rating : 2.20/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Bolts and Hangers

not a great anchor 1 out of 5 stars

Review by: caughtinside, 2008-03-05

I saw a few other reviews on these and thought I'd add somthing. Because both hangers are the same shape and face the same direction, they dont' truly distribute the load evenly. Eventually (usually pretty quickly) the left hanger will become a spinner because it is pulled to the right, just from rapping. poorly designed.

Spectro Climbing Shoes Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear

why haven't I heard about this shoe before? 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: caughtinside, 2008-02-21

So, I bought a pair of spectros from a climber I know, they didn't fit his feet. I have to say, the edging power of these shoes is nothing short of staggering. My previous favorite shoe had been the katana, but this just blows it away. They are super stiff under the big toe, but not cinderblock stiff like the old Newtons. The insane edging power of the shoe under the big toe is complemented by the fact that the forefoot is still flexible and can smear.

Also, these shoes are very well made. Everything about this shoe is tight and precise, no slop. I expect them to hold up well, you will notice the quality workmanship right away if you try them on.

My biggest complaint about these shoes, is that they are hard to find? I don't know of a single scarpa retailer in NorCal, and I don't like to buy shoes online unless I've bought that model that size before. Does BD still distribute Scarpa? and if so how come I can't find them anywhere??

Phillygoat's review is spot on. (except I have no testarossa experience to compare.)

EDIT: I came across a little more information on the spectro and Scarpa generally, and thought I would add to this review:

Scarpa was distributed by BD until around 3 yrs ago. The Italian based company stopped the distributorship when their prices+the BD handling fee were halting sales in the US. Scarpa North America formed in Colorado solving the distributorship issue and pricing became competitive again.

During the transition, there were a few changes at Scarpa. One of the real upsides was the hiring of Heinz Merriacher, the long time shoe designer from La Sportiva.

The Spectro is one of his first Scarpa-specific designs. It hails from a 'family' of shoes: the stix, booster/rockette and soon to be released ferroce. The powerful toe is the result of the TPS insert in the toebox. The thin toe power support maintains the shape of the toe and enriches powerful edging.

Newport H2 (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Amphibious

ok 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: caughtinside, 2007-07-02

These are nice sandals, but I recently got hooked up with a pair of Chaco Z2's and the chacos are better in nearly every way:
rubber--stealth on the chacos is noticeably better than the stuff on the Keens, which wasn't that great. Weight-- keens are much heavier. Breatheability--keens are much cooler. Clipability--both clip to a harness ok, but the chacos are less bulky and hang better. Stink--the keens stink more. dirty feet--tie. My sweaty feet get dirty on dusty approaches in either. Not a big deal, I just wipe on my pant leg or calf. Comfort--both are nice and have good arch support, but I'd give the nod to chaco because my feet stay cooler, and it is easier to dislodge the inevitable rock that works into a sandal.

> >|