Gear : Reviews
Reviews by chanceboarder (12)
ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating : 4.60/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & DescendersReview
Review by: chanceboarder, 2006-01-24
Great belay device! I loved my reverso for bringing up my second but hated to rappel on it because it didn't give me enough friction (I'm a heavy guy). Then I picked up the ATC-XP and loved the friction and holding power but always wished it had an autoblock feature for bringing up the second.
I guess my wish came true with the ATC-Guide. It produces more then enough friction (although feels like a little less then the ATC-XP) for me to easily control rappels, it feeds and taking in slack just as well as the ATC-XP, and the autoblock feature works great. I think the release tap is a great addition to the Guide and puts it another step above the reverso. I do wish that the tap was a little bigger allowing for more types of slings to be threaded through it. The only slings I've found that fit in there are the skinny 8mm ones. A length of 6mm cord would also fit in there if you carry that, but forget about getting any of your old thicker slings and cords through there.
Overall I think BD has came out with another great toy for us to use and would recommend it to anyone doing multipitch or doing a lot of belaying from the top. But for anyone just doing single pitch sport routes or top roping where you lower off at the end you wont see any added benefits to this over the XP.
I guess my wish came true with the ATC-Guide. It produces more then enough friction (although feels like a little less then the ATC-XP) for me to easily control rappels, it feeds and taking in slack just as well as the ATC-XP, and the autoblock feature works great. I think the release tap is a great addition to the Guide and puts it another step above the reverso. I do wish that the tap was a little bigger allowing for more types of slings to be threaded through it. The only slings I've found that fit in there are the skinny 8mm ones. A length of 6mm cord would also fit in there if you carry that, but forget about getting any of your old thicker slings and cords through there.
Overall I think BD has came out with another great toy for us to use and would recommend it to anyone doing multipitch or doing a lot of belaying from the top. But for anyone just doing single pitch sport routes or top roping where you lower off at the end you wont see any added benefits to this over the XP.
MaxCams™ (Manufacturer link) Average Rating : 4.07/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: ActiveReview
Review by: chanceboarder, 2005-07-13
Overall very nice cam with features very similar to the new BD Camalot C4's. Personally I found a few things about the cam I didn't particularly care for. The range is very similar to the new BD's as well as the weight. When holding my #2 max cam and #2 C4 I couldn't tell the difference in weight. Placing wasn't a problem and just took a few tries to get used to it. I didn't like the trigger bar, size of the thumb loop, or the extendable sling. I'm rating the Max Cam a 4 while I would give the new BD C4 a 5 rating. Read my more extensive review of the [url=http://rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1130989#1130989]Max Cam here [/url]
Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco Rock Shoes (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating : 4.62/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace UpReview
Review by: chanceboarder, 2005-02-28
these are my favorite shoes. i've also got the velcro ones and since i got these they have become my favs. my velcro ones are 10.5 and they are tight enough that all my toes are curled and i've got the lace up ones in a size 11.5 and my big toe is flat but at the end and my other toes are slightly curled. they seem to work really well for me that way. they edge really well and smear very nicely. the heal cup doesn't fit all too great but i don't think it fits anyone good. these are a great sport shoe and probably thin cracks (but i haven't tried them on that yet) and i'll probably still use my velcro ones for steep technical stuff and bouldering.
Cadillac (Manufacturer link) Average Rating : 4.24/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: AdjustableReview
Review by: chanceboarder, 2004-11-25
Amazingly comfortable with lots of features. The 6 gear loops are great for racking. It's now the only harness I use.
Omega 3/4 Tent (Manufacturer link) Average Rating : 4.75/5
In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Tents: 4 Season TentsReview
Review by: chanceboarder, 2004-07-16
i love this tent. room enough for 2 and i love that its a 3 season tent but convertible to 4 season. great all around tent backpacking or car camping.