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Reviews by crotch (15)

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Climbing DVD - King Lines Average Rating = 4.43/5 Average Rating : 4.43/5

In: Gear: Media: Videos and DVDs: Climbing

Best climbing video since Padula's El Capitan 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: crotch, 2007-10-29

Finally, a climbing film that tells a story from beginning to end, accompanied by excellent cinematography, editing and production values. If you've found previous videos like Rampage and the Dosage series lacking in story and interest, then this may be the video for you. It seems like the Lowell's have matured into real film-makers with this offering.

Superfly Screwlock Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.17/5 Average Rating : 4.17/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

The best lightweight locker on the market! 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: crotch, 2007-04-13

The Superfly Locker is the best lightweight locker currently on the market. This is THE biner for that critical pro that must not fail. This is THE biner to hang on your harness with your prussics for self rescue. This is THE biner to clip that bomber cam in your anchor. For any task that requires a locker, but doesn't call for huge gate clearance or lots of room for many knots, this is the biner.

Helium Clean Wire Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

A good biner, but not as good as the DMM Shield 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: crotch, 2007-04-13

This is a good biner but I find that I like me DMM Shields much better. The Shield also has a hooded, no-snag gate, is very light, and the shape is superior.

Shield Quickdraw (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Quickdraws

No More Short Axis Cross-loading 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: crotch, 2007-04-13

Most standard lightweight biners don't have enough mass to stay oriented in a long-axis loading configuration when on the rope end of a draw. If you find that tendency disconcerting, the Shield is the 'biner for you. The Shield is lighter than a Neutrino (the OLD standard), but there are many biners that are lighter yet. The big advantages of the Shield is the shape that prevents cross loading, the hooded nose that prevents opening up when it's laying against the rock. Two Shields also fit together very well in opposite and opposed configuration. This is a solid choice for a rope-end biner. It's clear that the guys and gals at DMM have been thinking hard about biner design.

ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: crotch, 2006-03-27

This device has more friction than either the Reverso or B52. I found it a bit slow rapping a 10.5 mm rope, even in regular mode, but the friction is welcome with skinny ropes.

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